This article is different — it’s for people who want a more capable travel camera system with interchangeable lenses, better low-light performance, full manual control and room to grow beyond a single fixed lens.

Travel moves fast — the moments you want to capture often happen once, and you don’t get do-overs. Choosing the right camera can mean the difference between a memory saved forever and a moment missed.
I’ve spent the last 15+ years shooting everywhere from quiet English villages to tropical beaches and crowded cities — using Fujifilm, Nikon, OM System, Sony and even medium format GFX cameras along the way.
In this guide, I’ll cut through the noise and share my real-world recommendations for the best travel cameras in 2026, tailored to different types of travelers and budgets. I’ve shot and owned every camera on this list so these are real recommendations based on real shooting.

What to Consider Before Buying

Choosing the right camera for travel isn’t just about specs — it’s about how the camera fits into your trip and your life. Here are the main factors I look for when deciding what to pack:

• Portability: You’ll carry it all day, often in hot, crowded, or rugged places. A lighter camera means you’ll actually bring it everywhere.
• Lens Ecosystem: The best camera is the one that can grow with you. Make sure there are lenses available for the type of photography you love most (wide landscapes, portraits, wildlife, etc.).
• Weather Sealing: Essential if you shoot outdoors — rain, dust, and humidity are part of travel.
• Battery Life: Always check real-world battery life. Some mirrorless cameras burn through batteries quickly, so bring spares. The ability to charge via USB-C and use powerbanks is increasingly useful.
• Image Quality: This includes resolution, dynamic range, and how the camera handles low light — but also whether it’s good enough for your intended output. There’s little point in hauling a 100MP medium format camera if your images will only live on Instagram.

Now that you know what to look for, here are my top picks for the best travel cameras in 2026 — covering every budget and travel style.

Best Overall Travel Camera— Fujifilm X-T5

In my opinion, the Fujifilm X-T5 combines the strengths of multiple cameras. When paired with Fujifilm’s compact Fujicron lenses, it’s really not much bigger than the X100VI — but you still get all the handling benefits of Fuji’s physical shutter speed and ISO dials, plus an aperture ring on most lenses. I put the X-T5 up against the Nikon Zf in a separate article to see how they compared.

The image quality is virtually identical to the X100VI, but there are some important benefits: the bigger NP-W235 battery means it lasts all day for casual shooting, it has dual card slots for peace of mind, and with many of Fuji’s f/2 lenses it’s actually faster to focus than the X100VI.

The big difference, of course, is flexibility. Being able to change lenses means you can create a system that suits you perfectly — from small, lightweight travel setups to pro-grade images with some of the most beautifully rendering primes on the market, like the 23mm f/1.4 WR , 33mm f/1.4 WR and 56mm 1.2WR. If you want to delve deeper, then these are the best Fuji lenses for travel photography or for a broader view, the best Fuji lenses in 2026 .

For me, the X-T5 strikes the best balance of any camera available right now in terms of size, flexibility, image quality, and enjoyment. It’s my most-used camera and, when I sold off all my gear last year to do a complete reset, this was the system I chose to base my personal shooting around. You can see why in my Fuji X-T5 full review.

It’s particularly good for photographing people thanks to Fuji’s film simulations, and with seven custom shooting modes available, I can set up multiple configurations and access them quickly from the Q menu. Honestly, if I could only have one camera for travel photography, this would be the one — it just does everything I need.

Are there downsides? Sure. The AF — which gets a lot of criticism online — still isn’t up to Sony’s level for fast action tracking, but it’s good enough for everything I shoot. Build quality is very good, though not quite as bulletproof as the next camera on this list but it’s stood up to everything I’ve thrown at it in South-East Asia and the Scottish Highlands.

Best Complete Travel System — OM System OM-3

If you want a complete, travel-ready camera that offers everything you could possibly need without hauling a bunch of accessories, the OM System OM-3 should be very high on your list. I discuss why I bought the OM System OM-3 here and you can find my full OM System OM-3 review here.

The OM-3 has the latest stacked Micro Four Thirds sensor, which allows it to focus and shoot extremely quickly. On a recent trip it easily tracked Sofia running down the beach. It’s small and light, so it doesn’t take up much room in your bag, and when paired with tiny, weather-sealed lenses like the OM System 17mm f/1.8 II, it offers excellent image quality in an unbeatably compact package.

Not only is this a beautiful-looking camera, it’s quick to use with enough custom buttons to adjust everything important without menu-diving. It looks retro but uses the faster PASM dial, combining classic aesthetics with modern usability. Yes, the sensor is smaller than the others on this list and has the lowest resolution at 20MP, but it’s still more than capable of producing images that will make you never want to rely on your phone again.

Where the OM-3 really shines is freedom — freedom to leave the tripod at home, freedom to forget physical filters, and freedom to shoot any subject you want thanks to its incredible computational modes: I talk about the things I already love about my OM-3 here along with the best lenses for travel photography with the OM-3 here.

• Handheld High-Res: Get 50MP files with improved color and noise performance (as long as your subjects are still).
• Live ND & ND Grad: Simulate long exposures without carrying filters.
• Live Bulb / Live View: See your long exposure building in real time so you know exactly when you’ve nailed it.
• Starry Sky AF: Perfectly focuses for astrophotography.
• In-Camera Focus Stacking: Create tack-sharp macro images without special software.
• Best-in-Class IBIS: Shoot at night with shutter speeds as low as 1–4 seconds — handheld.
• IP53 Weather Sealing: This is the only brand that gives IPX ratings. I’ve shot OM cameras through Scottish winters and Southeast Asian monsoons without issue.
• Pro Capture Mode: Pre-record frames before you fully press the shutter so you never miss the decisive moment.

The ability of the OM-3 to handle virtually any subject, in almost any condition, is something few cameras can match. Combined with the generally smaller lenses for Micro Four Thirds — everything from tiny kit zooms to professional lenses — it’s a camera that can go with you anywhere and shoot anything, from an Arctic expedition to street photography in Paris.

Downsides? Like all cameras, there are compromises. Low-light performance is about ½–⅔ stop behind Fuji APS-C and about 2 stops behind full-frame. It only has a single card slot, so use reliable cards. With heavier lenses, the grip can feel a little small, though that’s easily fixed with a small add-on grip. The viewfinder is an older 2.36M-dot panel, which is a compromise I’m personally willing to make in exchange for everything else this camera offers. It’s also a little expensive compared to some competitors — but there’s simply nothing else on this list that delivers this level of versatility, portability, and capability in one package.

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Best Full-Frame Travel Camera — Nikon Z6 III

Remember back in the “What to Consider” section when I said image quality, handling, and lens choice were among the most important things to me? Those priorities are exactly why I picked the Nikon Z6 III — and why I’d argue it’s the best full-frame travel camera available right now. It is one of the few cameras that is great straight out of the box although adding a few key accessories takes it from great to nearly perfect. You can see the full Nikon Z6III review here. There is of course the Nikon Z8 which I compared to the Z6III but for travel the Z6III makes more sense.

In terms of size, it’s barely bigger than my OM System OM-1 Mark II, yet it packs a full-frame 24MP sensor that delivers some of the best image quality currently available. Not only is the image quality fantastic, it is fast to operate and shoots bursts up to 20FPS. The IBIS is excellent which gives you more flexibility when it comes to low light shooting and it offers a high quality EVF which is incredibly useful when shooting in sunny destinations.

What makes the Z6 III special is really the lens selection. While Nikon might not match Sony’s sheer number of lenses, the ones they do offer are absolutely ideal for travel photographers: small, light, and optically excellent. The 24-70mm f/4 and 14-30mm f/4 zooms are incredibly capable, and the 1.8 primes — like the Z 35mm f/1.8 — are among the sharpest, best-rendering lenses I’ve ever used, as I saw in my Nikon Z 50mm 1.8 review. I compared the Nikon Z 35mm 1.8 against the Nikon Z 50mm 1.8 to see which prime you should buy first.

They focus fast, are weather-sealed, and are built to last. Crucially, Nikon doesn’t force you to choose between cheap, compromised primes and huge, expensive pro glass — the Z-mount lineup gives you both portability and quality. I’ve personally bought into the 1.8 prime lineup with the 20mm, 35mm, 50mm, and 85mm f/1.8 lenses, and they cover everything I shoot. The Z6 III with those lenses fits comfortably into my Peak Design Everyday Sling bag, and on bigger trips or more demanding shoots, I still have room to add the Z8 without feeling overloaded. Since I moved to Scotland at the start of the year, I have also found that I am shooting with zooms more often and some of them are proving to be amongst the best Nikon Z lenses available.

Another big factor for me is ergonomics. The Z6 III (and Z8) have the best handling of any full-frame cameras I’ve used. Every button is exactly where you expect it, the grip is extremely comfortable, and you get dual card slots — one of which is CFexpress Type B for fast bursts and robust video specs.

Speaking of video, not only is the Nikon Z6III one of the best cameras that you can buy today, it also includes truly excellent video specs. If you shoot hybrid, the Z6 III is a monster: 6K and 4k120 internal recording, high frame rates, and professional codecs. But even if you only shoot stills, you’ll appreciate its low-light performance (among the best on any full-frame camera), excellent IBIS (right up there with Panasonic), and its gorgeous 5.76M-dot EVF and top LCD panel. Nikon’s color profiles give you natural but punchy files straight out of camera.

Downsides? Some people argue its dynamic range isn’t as good as certain competitors, but unless you’re regularly pushing landscapes by three or more stops, you’ll never notice. Autofocus is excellent but not quite as sticky as Sony’s latest A7 IV/A7C II models, and I personally prefer a 3-way tilt screen for photography rather than the fully articulating one Nikon uses here.

Still, when you combine everything — the ergonomics, IBIS, low-light performance, and an almost-perfect travel lens lineup — the Z6 III is, in my opinion, the best full-frame camera for travel photography right now.

Best Alternatives – Nikon ZF

If you want a smaller, more discreet camera than the Nikon Z6 III that retains most of its strengths while offering a more stylish, tactile shooting experience, the Nikon Zf is it. It uses an older-generation 24MP full-frame sensor, but image quality is every bit as good as the Z6 III. It also shares Nikon’s latest EXPEED 7 processor, which means autofocus performance is very similar in real-world use. I compared the Nikon Zf against the Z6III in more detail.

I’ve been using the Zf a lot recently, and performance-wise it’s closer to the Z6 III than many people expect. The real difference is design philosophy. The Zf is a retro-styled camera with physical dials for shutter speed, ISO, and exposure compensation, while still allowing you to shoot in aperture priority, shutter priority, or full auto when needed.

It’s not as comfortable to hold as the Z6 III due to the lack of a pronounced grip, and the second card slot is limited to microSD, which won’t suit everyone. If efficiency and ergonomics matter most, the Z6 III is still the better choice as a primary camera. But if you value the experience of shooting as much as the results, the Zf is an excellent alternative — and a brilliant backup body that offers a different, and often more enjoyable, way of working. Whichever camera you end up choosing, I’ve published my settings to help you get started with setting the camera up. Z6III settings guide and the Nikon Zf settings guide.

— Sony A7C II
If you want something smaller and lighter with even better autofocus and a huge lens ecosystem, the Sony A7C II is an excellent option. I previously owned the A7 IV (which shares the same internals), and it’s a fantastic camera with the best AF I’ve ever used. The trade-offs? The ergonomics are more cramped, the viewfinder isn’t as nice, and I don’t trust its weather sealing as much as Nikon’s. Sony’s 1.8 primes are cheaper and lighter but don’t quite match the image quality or build of Nikon’s Z-mount primes.

Best Value Full-Frame Travel Camera — Panasonic Lumix S5II

It would be hard to write this article without including one of the best-value full-frame cameras available: the Panasonic S5II (I personally own the S5IIX, which for stills is basically identical). I originally bought the S5IIX for video work, back before I switched my focus fully to this website — and yes, it has excellent video specs — but I think it’s hugely underrated as a stills camera.

The ergonomics are honestly among the best of any camera I own. Every button seems to be exactly where I expect it to be. The body feels solid yet remains relatively compact for a full-frame camera. What stands out most to me, though, is the image quality, which is excellent. High ISO performance is very strong (possibly a touch better than the Z6 III), and Panasonic’s color profiles are beautiful. The Natural profile produces realistic yet vibrant colors, and the black-and-white options — L Monochrome and Leica Monochrome — are stunning.

Autofocus, while not class-leading, is absolutely good enough for people and general photography. In my experience it’s about on par with the Z6 III, though I do wish Panasonic would show a box around the eye in focus rather than crosshairs. IBIS is arguably the best in any full-frame camera right now, and the dual card slots plus the ability to load your own creative LUTs (color porifles) into the camera make it a very flexible tool.

While Panasonic doesn’t offer the same breadth of lenses as Nikon or Sony, they’re part of the L-Mount Alliance (with Sigma), so there’s still plenty of choice. I really appreciate Panasonic’s thoughtful design: the three lenses I own — the 20–60mm, 50mm f/1.8, and 85mm f/1.8 — are all similar in size and share the same filter thread size. This means I don’t have to buy duplicate filters, and for video shooters, you wont have to re-balance your gimbal every time you swap lenses. The lenses are good performers, weather-sealed, and in my experience Panasonic’s sealing is trustworthy — I’ve used their Micro Four Thirds cameras in monsoons without issue. the build quality of the lenses is not quite up to the Nikon Z 1.8 primes i mentioned above but the benefit is that saves you a bit of weight while still getting good optical performance.

When you factor in the often ridiculously good deals available on the S5II and S5IIX (I got my S5IIX + lenses for around $2500) , you get a well-specced, well-designed, and very enjoyable full-frame camera at a significantly lower price than most competitors. For anyone wanting full-frame quality without breaking the bank, it’s a compelling choice.

Downsides? Honestly, there aren’t many at this price point, but I do find the camera a bit slow to operate. Startup time takes a moment, and even pressing the playback button introduces a slight delay before images appear. And outside of the often-discounted 20–60mm kit lens and the excellent 50mm and 85mm f/1.8 lenses, some of Panasonic’s other lenses are fairly expensive.

Best of the Best (Money No Object) — Fujifilm GFX100S

This next option isn’t specifically a “travel camera” — but if we even travel back just a few years, it would have been unthinkable to use a medium format camera for travel photography. And yet, with the GFX100S (which I own) — and now the Mark II version — we do, unbelievably, have the option to go all out and use medium format for travel.

Yes, it’s significantly heavier than the other cameras on this list, but I still use my GFX100S for travel when image quality is the absolute priority or I’m shooting a specific project and want the very best I can get. The body is about the same size as my Nikon Z8, very comfortable to hold with a solid grip, plenty of custom buttons, dual card slots (SD only), a top LCD for quickly checking settings, and a good viewfinder.

Personally, I wouldn’t pair this camera with zooms — they’re just too big — but there are primes that work well as a travel kit and keep things manageable. Lenses like the 45mm f/2.8, 50mm f/3.5, 55mm f/1.7, and 80mm f/1.7 are not that large and are certainly smaller and lighter than the pro f/2.8 zooms many people travel with on full frame.

The GFX100S offers a 102MP medium format (some argue not “true” medium format) sensor that’s 1.7× larger than full frame. It’s excellent in low light, gives you Fuji’s wonderful color profiles, and outputs 16-bit RAW files. For medium format, its autofocus is actually quite reasonable — no, it won’t follow your kids as they sprint down the beach, but for anything that isn’t moving at breakneck speed, it can keep up. (I presume the Mark II is even better, though I still need to test it.)

If you want the absolute best for a once-in-a-lifetime trip — perhaps Yellowstone National Park — traveling with the GFX100S is totally doable. The resulting image files will blow you away: you can print them as large as you want, crop aggressively, and know you made the photos the best they could possibly be.

People often talk about the “medium format look,” and without diving too far into technicalities, it’s real. The combination of better tonality and how focal lengths behave on a larger sensor gives images a unique look. If you want the best without paying $50,000 for a Phase One, Fuji offers it in a reasonably sized package without having to remortgage the house — maybe just sell a kidney.

Are there any downsides to the GFX100S? Well, there’s no getting around the fact that this setup is bigger and heavier than all the others here. You also need to consider where you’re traveling. You might not want to carry such expensive equipment — whether because of the risk of damage or loss, or simply not wanting to attract attention in countries where your gear might represent more than the average annual salary. Autofocus will mean you miss some shots, so if your style leans toward candid moments and capturing life as it happens, this won’t be a good choice. If you mainly post to social media, this is definitely overkill. And if you just want medium format without the bulk, there’s the recently released GFX100RF, which is essentially a medium format X100VI.

Final Thoughts

Choosing the best travel camera isn’t about buying the most expensive one — it’s about picking the one that matches how you actually shoot and travel. If you want a pocketable camera, I’ve covered that separately in my Best Compact Cameras for Travel Photography 2026 guide. This page focuses on mirrorless/system cameras that give you room to grow — from the flexible Fujifilm X-T5 to full-frame bodies like the Nikon Z6 III and Panasonic S5II. And if image quality is the absolute priority, the GFX100S even makes medium format travel-viable.

Whatever you choose, the most important thing is to get out there and use it — the best camera for travel is the one you have with you when the moment happens. If you found this guide helpful and you’re planning to buy one of these cameras, using the links on this page helps support the site at no extra cost to you — and lets me keep creating in-depth, honest guides like this one.

Safe travels, and happy shooting.

FAQ — Travel Camera Systems Explained

Last Updated May 2026: Of all the articles that I have written, this one remains one of my favourites as it is still highly relevant and its intent is to try and simplify things and save you money by avoiding the trap of buying too much. I still believe these lens kits make as much sense as ever.

So you’ve got your X-T5 — which I personally think is the best photography camera Fujifilm makes right now and the best travel camera. It is incredibly versatile, from family photography to travel. But with the sheer amount of Fuji lenses available, it can be hard to figure out what you actually need in order to shoot the kind of photos you want.

If you’re new, it’s easy to fall into the trap of thinking you need a massive bag full of lenses to cover every possible scenario. But as you gain experience, you start to realise that 2–3 quality lenses are all you really need. This holds true whether you’re shooting landscapes, wildlife, or just general travel and family photography.

If you just want to get straight to the best lenses for the X-T5 recommendations click the link below that most interests you.

This article contains affiliate links. If you buy through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Some of the best photographers in history have worked this way. Sebastião Salgado, Ernst Haas, Don McCullin — they each had a strong preference for just one or two primary lenses. And if you’ve heard of the so-called “Holy Trinity” of lenses (the standard ultrawide, standard zoom, and telephoto zoom setup), you’ll know it usually means 14–30mm, 24–70mm, and 70–200mm. The problem is, even on APS-C, that kit gets heavy fast.

I could just take the standard line and tell you to go out and buy all the best professional-grade zooms, mix in a handful of the top primes, and call it a day. But that simply isn’t true. For most people it’s unnecessary, it will cost you a fortune, and it won’t make your photos any better. In fact, once you have a bag full of heavy, expensive gear, it might put you off taking your camera out altogether.

If you’re looking for more detailed comparisons then I compared the Fuji 18mm 1.4WR vs the Fuji 23mm 1.4WR here. I also have other lens comaprisons on the website that can be searched.

That’s why I’m writing this article: to cut through the noise and clarify which Fuji lenses you really need for the X-T5 — and, just as importantly, which lenses pair together well. It’s not a comprehensive list that covers every scenario, but rather a set of 1- 2- and 3-lens setups that balance versatility, quality, and practicality. And if one lens doesn’t suit your exact needs, feel free to swap it — the idea here is to simplify the decision and help you build a kit that works.

Landscape Kit: Wide to Telephoto Versatility

A lot of people will tell you to go with the “holy trinity” of zooms for landscapes — an ultrawide, a standard zoom, and a telephoto. And while that’s perfectly valid, my own experience as a professional landscape photographer in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland taught me something different.

Like many beginners, I once thought landscape photography was all about going as wide as possible. I shot almost exclusively with the Canon 10–22mm and 17–40mm lenses. But after a while, I grew tired of the exaggerated perspective. I found myself reaching more often for the 24–105mm and even the 70–200mm, which allowed me to create more intentional, less “gimmicky” compositions.

On the Fuji system, the XF 10–24mm f/4 OIS WR hits the sweet spot. It gives you that option to go ultrawide when needed, but most of the time you’ll find the 24–35mm equivalent range more natural for landscapes. It’s compact, sharp enough, weather sealed, and a great all-rounder.

Why not the XF 8–16mm f/2.8? Several reasons. First, it doesn’t take filters easily — you need bulky, expensive mounting systems to use them. Second, it’s significantly heavier than the 10–24mm. Third, you don’t need f/2.8 for landscapes. Even with the 10–24mm, you’ll almost always be stopping down to f/5.6 or beyond. Yes, the 8–16mm may be sharper, but if sharpness alone makes or breaks your photo, then the composition probably isn’t strong enough in the first place.

Pair the 10–24mm with the XF 70–300mm f/4–5.6 OIS WR and you’ve got a landscape kit that covers everything from expansive wide views to intimate detail shots. The telephoto is an underused tool in landscapes — it allows you to compress a scene, isolate textures, or highlight patterns that would get lost with a wide-angle lens. The 70-300mm is sharp, relatively light and compact and is weather sealed.

Why not the XF 50–140mm f/2.8? Again, it comes down to practicality. The 70–300mm is lighter, covers a broader range, and for landscapes you’ll rarely benefit from the wider aperture of the 50–140mm. Weight and cost savings matter more when you’re carrying gear across long hikes.

If you feel the gap between 24mm and 70mm is too big, you can always slot in a tiny prime like the XF 35mm f/2 WR or XF 50mm f/2 WR . Both hardly add any weight to your bag, yet they give you a capable low-light option and round out the kit nicely.

Why this kit works: A lightweight, weather-sealed setup that balances the dramatic look of wide angles with the subtlety and precision of telephoto landscapes. Perfect for XT5 shooters who want flexibility without hauling a massive bag.

I’ve linked everything included in this landscape kit below, all in one place to make it easy for you to find.

Of course, not everyone is heading into the hills with their X-T5. For most people, the real challenge is travel photography — finding a kit that’s versatile enough for everything from city streets to sunsets on the beach.

Travel Kit: Zoom Plus Prime for Flexibility

There are two main ways to approach travel photography. These days, I tend to keep it simple with a prime-only kit. But for someone starting out, I recommend going with a zoom plus a prime lens. There are a couple of reasons for this.

First, a zoom lens gives you the flexibility to capture a wide range of subjects — from street scenes and architecture to tighter portraits and details — without constantly changing lenses. Second, when you’re new, you might not have worked out your shooting style yet or which focal lengths you prefer. A zoom lets you experiment, while the prime gives you a taste of faster glass for low-light and portraits.

For the zoom, I recommend sticking with the XF 18–55mm f/2.8–4 R LM OIS. It’s one of the best “kit” lenses on the market, and when bundled with a Fuji body, it often costs less than $100 extra. At 18mm (27mm full-frame equivalent) it’s wide enough for storytelling, street, and architecture. At 55mm (82.5mm equivalent) it reaches into portrait and detail territory. It’s sharp, relatively bright for a kit lens, and thanks to optical image stabilization, it’s surprisingly capable in low light — as long as your subject isn’t moving too much. It’s compact and lightweight, though not weather sealed. Honestly, unless you specifically need more reach (as with the 16–80mm) or pro-level sharpness and build (as with the 16–55mm f/2.8II), the 18–55mm is good enough to get you started — and far more portable.

To complement it, add a fast prime. The XF 35mm f/2 WR is an excellent lightweight choice — discreet, weather-sealed, and sharp, it’s a perfect walkaround lens that can handle evening street shooting and portraits. If you want something with more character and even better performance, go for the XF 33mm f/1.4 WR. It’s larger and more expensive, but the image quality and low-light performance make it a worthwhile investment for anyone serious about travel photography.

Why this kit works: It covers almost every travel scenario while keeping weight down. The 18–55mm handles daytime flexibility, while the 35mm or 33mm prime lets you shoot confidently in low light and gives portraits that extra special look.

I have linked to this kit below. If you don’t already have the 18-55mm lens then I have also included the XF 16-80mm lens in this kit. It gives a little more reach, a constant aperture and weather sealing. All the items are linked in one place to make it easy for you to find them.

If you already know you prefer primes, there’s an even simpler and more focused way to travel — leaving the zoom behind and committing to fast Fuji primes only.

Travel Kit: Prime-Only for the Purist

If you prefer to shoot primes, like I do, then Fujifilm gives you fantastic options ranging from compact and affordable to pro-level optics. For the sake of this section, I’ll assume that if you’re considering a prime-only travel kit, you’ve already got some experience, you value image quality, and you appreciate just how compact Fuji’s best primes are compared to full-frame equivalents.

My go-to two-lens travel kit would be:

• XF 23mm f/1.4 WR → This is my storytelling lens. The focal length is flexible enough for street photography, group shots, and everyday context, while offering superb image quality, fast autofocus, and weather sealing.
• XF 56mm f/1.2 WR → This gives you the ability to capture portraits and tighter details with beautiful subject isolation and pro-level rendering. Fuji 56mm 1.2 WR review here

Together, these two lenses cover everything from mild wide-angle to intimate portraits in a lightweight package that delivers professional image quality.

• XF 23mm f/1.4 WR → My storytelling lens. Flexible for street, groups and everyday context, with superb image quality, fast AF and weather sealing.
• XF 56mm f/1.2 WR → Portrait/tight detail specialist with beautiful subject isolation and pro-level rendering.

If you want a one-lens setup, I’d suggest the XF 33mm f/1.4 WR. The 50mm-equivalent field of view is, in my opinion, the most versatile single focal length for travel — wide enough to tell a story, long enough for portraits, and with excellent low-light performance.

If you prefer a three-lens setup for more separation between focal lengths, I’d recommend:

• XF 18mm f/1.4 WR
• XF 33mm f/1.4 WR
• XF 56mm f/1.2 WR (or XF 90mm f/2 R LM WR if you want extra reach)

All of these lenses are excellent. The Fuji 18mm 1.4WR lens is immersive for landscapes and cityscapes, the 33mm is a classic all-rounder, and the 56mm/90mm give you beautiful portrait options. While the 56mm autofocus is a touch slower, it’s still more than good enough for most travel scenarios.

Want to travel even lighter? I often go with Fuji’s compact “Fujicron” primes (the XF 23mm f/2 , reviewed here, 35mm f/2, and 50mm f/2) and just take two or three depending on the trip and subjects I expect. They’re discreet, weather-sealed, and offer excellent image quality in a tiny package. if you are trying to decide, I compared the Fuji 50mm f2 against the 56mm 1.2WR.

Why this kit works: A prime-only setup requires a shift in mindset. Instead of trying to cover every possible situation, you commit to a small number of focal lengths and make them work. That limitation forces you to slow down, think about your compositions, and ultimately come home with stronger images — even if you miss the odd shot along the way.

I have linked to all of these primes in the kit below for ease.

But what about closer to home? For me, the most meaningful photos I take with the X-T5 aren’t from travel or landscapes at all — they’re the ones of my family as my daughters grow up.

Family Kit: One Lens, One Perspective

When it comes to photographing my family, I don’t want to cover every possible scenario. My wife has a phone for snapshots — the “we were here” photos. What I want to create are images that stand out: pictures of my daughters that capture emotion, interaction, and milestones in their childhood. The kinds of photos I can print, frame, and look back on years later to feel all those moments flood back.

That’s why I don’t recommend buying a bag full of lenses for family photography. Instead, pick one truly great lens and learn to use it for everything. Over the years, you’ll build a catalogue of images tied together not only by emotion and quality, but also by a consistent perspective.

For this approach, I recommend either the XF 23mm f/1.4 WR or the XF 33mm f/1.4 WR.

• The 23mm f/1.4 WR gives you more context. It’s wide enough for capturing your children in their environment — playing in the living room, baking with grandparents, blowing out candles at a birthday party — while still being fast and sharp enough to handle low light.
• The 33mm f/1.4 WR offers a more intimate look. The tighter field of view helps you isolate your subject and create photos that feel closer, more personal, and emotionally charged.

Both lenses are among the sharpest I’ve used, well built, and compact compared to zooms or full-frame equivalents. Both are weather-sealed, so you don’t have to pack your camera away the first time your kids play in the rain or snow. And both deliver professional-looking shallow depth of field that transforms everyday moments into something timeless.

Why this kit works: By choosing one high-quality lens and committing to it, you free yourself from gear decisions and focus entirely on moments. Whether you prefer the wider storytelling perspective of the 23mm or the intimate feel of the 33mm, you’ll end up with a consistent body of work that documents your family’s life in the best possible way. That’s not to say you can’t add a second lens to your bag — I sometimes do. But the key is knowing why you’re carrying it, rather than trying to cover every possible moment. Most of the time, I still follow this one-lens approach because it keeps me focused and results in stronger photos.

You can find both of the primes plus others linked below:

Final thoughts

The Fuji X-T5 is an incredibly versatile camera, and yes — you could build an entire bag of lenses around it. But in my experience, you don’t need to. Whether it’s the 10–24mm paired with the 70–300mm for landscapes, a flexible zoom-plus-prime travel kit, or simply one exceptional lens for documenting family, you’ll find that keeping things simple actually leads to stronger photos.

But what about wildlife shooters? Honestly, I only write about what I really know, where I feel I can add value. Yes, I’ve shot wildlife, in fact I shoot it regulalry on the Nikon Z system here in Scotland but I haven’t shot it on Fuji so I can’t give you the kind of deep, trustworthy advice I’d want to stand behind. I’d rather give you fewer, better recommendations than generic advice on every topic.

If you specifically want guidance in those areas, I’m happy to help — just leave a comment below or contact me directly. Having run a camera store and worked professionally as a photographer, I can point you in the right direction. But for this article, I’ve focused only on the setups I truly believe in and have been using consistantly myself.

The right kit isn’t about covering every scenario. It’s about choosing the lenses that inspire you to pick up the camera, learn them deeply, and focus on the moments that matter.

If you’re building out your Fuji X-T5 kit, don’t miss my XT5 Accessories Guide for the best add-ons, and grab my free XT5 Setup Files to get the most out of your camera from day one.

A few years abroad. Some travel. A bit of life experience before I did the “normal” things people like me are meant to do — get a job, buy a house, settle down somewhere predictable.

That was the plan.

Until my first daughter was born in 2016.

Everything changed after that.

Not instantly. But slowly. Subtly.

I’d still look at living abroad as a phase, something I’d grow out of. And every time I travelled or lived somewhere new, I saw it through the lens of a Brit abroad — curious, appreciative, but always with the feeling that the UK was still better.

Less corruption. More freedom. Safer streets. Fewer deadly animals (yes, Australia — I’m looking at you).

It was always the place I’d return to.

⸻

I remember landing in Cebu years ago and hearing Oasis playing in the taxi from the airport.

It filled me with pride. A silly kind of joy. That was my country’s music. A sound from the 1990s that made me feel like home was still close, even from halfway around the world.

⸻

Even as Sofia grew up here in the Philippines, I kept telling myself we’d end up back in the UK eventually.

For the schools. For the NHS. For the opportunities.

In fact, during all the COVID madness, we actually moved back to the UK for two years.

But we didn’t stay.

We came back to our home here in Cebu.

And that’s when things really started to shift.

⸻

As I write this, I’ve just landed at Birmingham airport on what will likely be my final trip to the UK.

My return journey is next week.

So this trip is a kind of goodbye.

You see, I’m not travelling alone this time.

I’m flying back to bring my mum to live with us here in the Philippines.

⸻

We’ve always been incredibly close.

But since my dad passed away so suddenly in 2023, the distance between us has grown harder to live with. She’s getting older, and every year I’d make the trip home to spend time with her — no matter what else was happening.

That annual trip to the UK was my anchor.

It kept me tied to my roots.

To the version of me that never quite let go of the idea of “home.”

But that’s changed now.

She’s coming here.

To live near us. To be part of our daily lives. To be with her granddaughters as they grow up.

And while that brings me an enormous sense of peace and joy — it also brings a very strange kind of sadness.

⸻

Because it means I’m finally letting go of the idea that I’ll ever live in the UK again.

Not just for now.

But ever.

That’s a hard thing to wrap my head around.

To know that the country I grew up in — the place where my memories and friendships and old dreams live — is no longer where I belong.

⸻

The last time I was there, something felt different.

The country I once loved so fiercely just didn’t feel the same.

Maybe it changed. Maybe I did. Probably both.

But for the first time, I didn’t feel like it offered a better life.

Not for me.

Not for my daughters.

Not anymore.

⸻

Letting go of that felt like losing a friend.

Not in a dramatic or angry way — just a quiet sort of mourning.

I’ll never be Filipino. But in some ways, I’m no longer fully British either.

At least, not in the way I used to be.

Isn’t it strange how life twists like that?

How what we thought would be a chapter becomes the whole book?

Read More:

• One Natural Disaster Too Far — Why We’re Moving to Scotland
• The Week That Changed My Thinking — And Why the Nikon Z8 Now Feels Essential
• The One Habit That Transformed How I Photograph My Kids
• My Camera Doesn’t Just Save Memories — It Saves Me
• The Saddest Photo I’ve Ever Taken

Over the past 6 months, I’ve continued to shoot with both the Ricoh GRIV and Fuji X100VI both in the Philippines and now that I’ve moved, in the Scottish Highlands.

Most “best compact cameras” lists get rewritten every January with the same cameras shuffled around. This one doesn’t. Every camera below is either in my bag right now or something I’ve owned and used long enough to understand properly — the strengths, the compromises, and whether it actually makes sense for travel photography when you’re tired, moving quickly, or trying to keep up with your kids.

If you want the short version: these are the compact cameras that still earn their place in 2026 because they give you a real step up in image quality over a phone, without dragging you into the world of full systems and interchangeable lenses. However, if you’re deciding between a compact and a bigger setup, I’ve also compared the best mirrorless cameras for travel as well as writing an article on the best cameras if you’re just starting out.

For photographers looking at larger systems with lenses and more performance flexibility, I’ve written a guide to the best mirrorless cameras currently available and for those wanting to capture moments of their family, here are the best cameras for family photography.

Who needs a compact camera for travel photography these days, when smartphones are already in our pockets?

If you’re thinking that, you’re not alone — but smartphones, despite what you read, are simply not as good. Here’s why your phone camera isn’t good enough if you actually care about photography.

If you’re searching for the best compact camera in 2026, this guide is based on cameras I’ve personally owned and shot with (and one I’d love to because it’s too compelling to ignore).

I’ve got a few prints on my wall, and one of them makes me shiver every time I see it. It was taken on an iPhone 14 Pro, and even at just A3 size, it looks horrible. Plastic-looking skin and gaudy colours. Stepping up to modern Micro Four Thirds cameras such as the OM System OM3 or those with even larger sensors can be a huge upgrade to your photography. If you are looking for the best cameras for travel photography and not just compact cameras then I wrote a full article on that too.

So yes, smartphones are convenient. But if you actually care about your travel and family photos, then you probably — like me — want something that gives you better results, without lugging around a full camera bag and five lenses.

If you want to compare two of the best travel cameras then I put the Fujifilm X100VI vs the OM Systems OM-3 in this article.

Every camera I’m about to mention is one I currently own or have previously owned.

Well — except one. But it’s too good to leave out.

Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. If you choose to make a purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I’ve personally used or would choose myself.

The best compact camera 2026: Fujifilm X100VI

Key Specs — Fujifilm X100VI

• 40MP APS-C X-Trans CMOS sensor
• Fixed 23mm f/2 lens (35mm full-frame equivalent)
• 5-axis in-body image stabilization (IBIS)
• Hybrid AF with subject & face/eye detection
• 3″ tilting touchscreen LCD
• 4K video recording (up to 60p)
• Compact, lightweight body (approx. 521 g)
• USB-C charging and Wi-Fi/Bluetooth transfer
• Hybrid optical / electronic viewfinder
• Battery: NP-W126S (approx. 450 shots per charge)

I own the X100VI and use it as my lightweight travel and family camera. It’s my pick for the best compact camera 2026. Even after the release of the Ricoh GRIV, I still choose the Fuji X100VI most of the time thanks to all the reasons I discuss below. For more details, see my full X100VI review and my X100VI vs GRIV comparison.

It’s earned its place for good reason. It’s small and light, offers a large APS-C sensor, and delivers 40MP of excellent image quality. The lens is a fixed focal length of 23mm (full-frame 35mm equivalent), which is a really flexible focal length. It’s wide enough to capture most scenes (important when you’re travelling to new places and want to take in the sights), yet not so wide that it distorts things and makes your kids look like they’ve been telling a lot of lies lately. (Pinocchio reference.)

I also featured it in my Best Fujifilm Cameras and Lenses for Travel Photography article — because frankly, it’s still one of the best all-in-one travel cameras you can buy.

The lens is bright at f/2, which means you can keep taking photos well into the evening and they still look good. You can also get great shallow depth of field when shooting your family to give your shots a professional look.

The JPEGs are among the best of any camera, so you won’t need to spend hours behind a computer screen editing your photos before they can be shown. And the camera can wirelessly send photos to your phone automatically or manually, so you can quickly share your travels with friends, family, or your adoring fans.

Autofocus is quick, and it has automatic face and eye modes that let you concentrate on composition. If you stick a lens adapter and filter on it, it’s also weather sealed — meaning dust, sand, and water are kept out.

The battery is good enough to use most of the day (although I’d always recommend a spare), and it takes cheap and readily available SD cards.

Overall: If you want one of the best cameras available for travel and family photos in a small and light package, this is a top choice. Just make sure to kit it out properly — I’ve listed my recommended accessories for the Fuji X100VI if you need a starting point. The only issue is that you might struggle to get one quickly — everyone else agrees, and they’re in short supply.

Where to Buy the Fujifilm X100VI

Best Pocketable Compact Camera 2026 – Ricoh GR IV

Key Specs — Ricoh GR IV

• 26MP APS-C CMOS sensor
• Fixed 18.3mm f/2.8 lens (28mm full-frame equivalent)
• 5-axis sensor-shift image stabilization (IBIS)
• Hybrid autofocus with face detection
• Fixed 3″ touchscreen LCD
• Full HD video recording
• Ultra-compact, pocketable body (approx. 262 g)
• USB-C charging and Wi-Fi/Bluetooth connectivity
• Snap Focus mode for fast street shooting
• Battery: DB-120 (improved real-world endurance)

The Ricoh GR IV is the most recent compact camera release — and easily the most important one this year. On paper, I’ll admit I was initially a little underwhelmed by the specs. But once I stopped looking at what it added and instead focused on what the GR III was missing, the GR IV became far more compelling. I compared the GRIV against the GRIII in more detail.

In essence, it keeps everything that made the Ricoh GR III so appealing: a genuinely pocketable body and a large APS-C sensor that delivers excellent image quality. What it improves — and this matters — is usability as I found out in my Ricoh GRIV review.

Autofocus is significantly better in daylight. It’s now genuinely usable for everyday shooting, with reliable face detection that makes it far less frustrating when photographing people. This alone makes the camera feel more modern and capable than the GR III ever did.

Battery life is also much improved. In my testing, I took the GR IV to Dumaguete with just a single battery and managed to shoot all day with a bit of care. That would simply never have been possible with the GR III, where carrying multiple spares was essential.

Image quality has seen a subtle but welcome refinement too. The lens is a little sharper in the corners, and files look crisper and cleaner overall. In-body image stabilization has also been improved compared to the GR III, which helps when shooting stationary subjects in lower light and makes it easier to keep ISO under control.

There are still limitations. Autofocus struggles at night, and despite many people hoping for it, the GR IV doesn’t get weather sealing. The fixed rear LCD is unchanged too — perfectly usable most of the time, but a real challenge in bright daylight. Ricoh has tweaked a couple of rear buttons, which improves ergonomics slightly, but overall this still feels very much like a GR.

That’s not a bad thing. The GR IV feels like a faster, more confident, more modern version of the GR III — and that’s exactly what most people wanted.

The price has gone up compared to the GR III’s original launch, but that’s hardly surprising given rising costs across the board in recent years.

Overall, if you want the best pocket camera currently available, and you value something that works as a true everyday carry, the Ricoh GR IV is the strongest option right now. That said, it doesn’t make the GR III obsolete. If you can find a used GR III at a good price, it’s still well worth considering.

Where to Buy the Ricoh GR IV

Why the Ricoh GRIII is still worth considering

Key Specs — Ricoh GR III

• 24MP APS-C CMOS sensor
• Fixed 18.3mm f/2.8 lens (28mm full-frame equivalent)
• 3-axis sensor-shift image stabilization (IBIS)
• Hybrid autofocus (contrast + phase detection)
• Fixed 3″ touchscreen LCD
• Full HD video recording
• Ultra-compact, pocketable body (approx. 262 g)
• USB-C charging and Wi-Fi/Bluetooth connectivity
• Snap Focus mode for fast street shooting
• Battery: DB-110 (approx. 200 shots per charge)

If you want to save some money but still want a truly pocketable camera in 2026 then the Ricoh GRIII is still more than capable, especially as used prices will come down thanks to the release of the Ricoh GRIV. See my Ricoh GRIII review for more details and a direct comparison of the GRIII vs GRIV.

It is truly pocketable. And by that I mean jeans-pocket small. It’s actually smaller than most smartphones. Despite that, it still packs the same large APS-C sensor as the Fuji X100VI and offers a similar fixed-lens design — I compared the two in detail in this X100VI vs GR III article.

The lens gives you a slightly wider field of view — 28mm full-frame equivalent — which makes it even better for photographing cities, tighter spaces, or just trying to fit multiple children going in different directions into the same frame. With an aperture of f/2.8, it’s not quite as strong as the Fuji in low light, and it doesn’t offer the same level of shallow depth of field for that “pro” look, but the image quality is every bit as good.

The JPEGs are also excellent — no need to edit unless you want to — and the lens automatically retracts into the body when turned off, which keeps it protected. It’s not weather sealed, but because it’s so compact, you can easily slip it back into your pocket the moment the weather turns.

Battery life is pretty poor, though — definitely buy at least two spares if you’re planning a full day of shooting.

It’s worth noting that this is an older model, released back in 2019, so the autofocus isn’t quite up to the standards of newer cameras. It’ll lock onto stationary subjects just fine, but if you’re trying to capture fast-moving kids, look elsewhere.

That said, it has a useful trick up its sleeve — you can set it to pre-focus at a fixed distance (which you can customise), then stop down to something like f/8 and rely on depth of field to get nearly everything in focus. It’s quick, efficient, and works brilliantly in the right context.

Ricoh have also just released an updated GR app specifically for this camera series. It allows you to wirelessly transfer images to your phone and manage the camera remotely.

Buy this if you want the best image-quality-to-size ratio known to man (or at least to me), and don’t need blazing-fast autofocus. These cameras are so good for their size that I own one myself — and even bought the next camera I’m going to talk about for my 9-year-old daughter so we could enjoy photography together.

Oh — and it’s around 50% cheaper than the X100VI if you can stilll find one in stock.

Where to Buy the Ricoh GR III

Best Pocket Compact Camera Alternative – Ricoh GRIIIx

Key Specs — Ricoh GR IIIx

• 24MP APS-C CMOS sensor
• Fixed 26.1mm f/2.8 lens (40mm full-frame equivalent)
• 3-axis in-body image stabilization (IBIS)
• Hybrid AF (contrast + phase detection)
• Fixed 3″ touchscreen LCD
• Full HD video up to 60 fps
• Compact, pocketable design (approx. 262 g)
• USB-C charging and Wi-Fi/Bluetooth transfer
• Snap Focus mode for fast street shooting
• Battery: DB-110 (approx. 200 shots per charge)

If you like everything about the Ricoh GR III but prefer a less wide lens than its 28mm equivalent, the GR IIIx is the one to get.

This is the camera I bought for my daughter, Sofia. The tighter focal length makes composing easier — you can concentrate on your subject without constantly fighting clutter creeping into the edges of the frame (something that happens a lot with wider lenses when you’re learning).

The 40mm equivalent field of view is close to how scenes feel to the human eye, so photos look natural. It also lets you create a bit more shallow depth of field than the GR III, which helps people shots pop and generally flatters faces more than 28mm does.

Otherwise, it’s basically the same camera: same sensor, same pocketable size, same excellent image quality, same retracting lens, same poor battery life (buy spares). That’s the beauty of the GR system — pick your focal length.

Between the GR III and GR IIIx, Ricoh have covered the two most popular everyday viewpoints: wide-ish (28mm) for environments and tight spaces, and normal-ish (40mm) for people, detail, and general travel.

And here’s a fun thought: for the price some scalpers are charging for a Fuji X100VI, you could buy both the GR III and GR IIIx — giving you two APS-C pocket cameras and both focal lengths, all taking up hardly any room in your bag or even your pockets.

Where to Buy the Ricoh GR IIIx

Most Flexible Lightweight Travel Camera – Sony RX100 VII

Key Specs — Sony RX100 VII

• 20MP 1″ stacked CMOS sensor
• 24–200mm f/2.8–4.5 equivalent zoom lens
• Optical SteadyShot image stabilization
• Fast hybrid AF with Real-time Eye AF & tracking
• Pop-up 2.36M-dot OLED electronic viewfinder
• 3″ tilting touchscreen LCD
• 4K30p & Full HD up to 120fps video
• USB-C charging, Wi-Fi & Bluetooth connectivity
• Compact pocketable body — ~302 g
• Battery: NP-BX1 (approx. 260 shots per charge)

If you like the idea of a truly pocketable camera but want a zoom lens for flexibility, then the Sony RX100 VII is a great choice — one that I actually bought a few years ago and let Sofia use as her first-ever camera. She was a bit too young then to really appreciate what she had so we sold it on after a few months. However, in that time I got to use it and was impressed.

It offers a smaller 20MP 1″ sensor, so it doesn’t quite deliver the same image quality as the Fuji X100VI or the Ricoh GR cameras. But it’s still significantly better than a smartphone. Low light performance is decent for the sensor size, though again, you’re compromising compared to the larger APS-C sensors found in the other cameras on this list.

However, where you lose a bit of image quality, you gain massively in flexibility thanks to the 24–200mm f/2.8–4.5 lens. It’s frankly incredible that Sony managed to squeeze a lens of this range into such a tiny body. It allows you to shoot wide-angle landscapes one moment and nearly reach wildlife territory the next. That kind of flexibility means you’ll rarely miss a shot — at least not because you’ve got the wrong lens on.

The autofocus in the RX100 VII is also genuinely impressive, with excellent subject and face tracking. Despite being an older camera, the AF is probably the best on this list.

You also get a clever pop-up EVF. It’s not amazing, but it’s better than nothing — especially when shooting in bright sunlight where the rear LCD becomes hard to see.

As with the others on this list, the Sony offers USB-C charging, wireless image transfer, and in-body image stabilization.

Where to Buy the Sony RX100 VII

Best Premium Compact Camera – Leica D-Lux 8

Key Specs — Leica D-Lux 8

• 17MP Four Thirds CMOS sensor
• 24–75mm equivalent f/1.7–2.8 zoom lens
• Optical image stabilization
• 2.36M-dot OLED electronic viewfinder
• 3″ fixed LCD screen
• 4K30p & Full HD video recording
• USB-C charging & Leica FOTOS app connectivity
• Bluetooth & wireless image transfer
• Compact premium body — ~403 g
• Battery: BP-DC15 (approx. 300 shots per charge)

If you want to be part of that exclusive red dot club (and let’s face it, who doesn’t), the Leica D-Lux 8 offers you the chance at a much lower cost of entry.

It’s a compact camera that uses a 17MP Micro Four Thirds sensor — larger than a 1″ sensor but smaller than APS-C — and a bright f/1.7–2.8 24–75mm equivalent lens. That combination gives you very good performance in most situations, and the zoom range covers everything from wide-angle landscapes to short telephoto portraits.

It’s smaller than the Fuji X100VI while offering nearly as good image quality, but thanks to that zoom lens, it’s considerably more flexible.

What makes this interesting to me personally is that I used Micro Four Thirds cameras for a long time, and with a relatively bright zoom like this, I know this camera will be incredibly flexible while still delivering very good image quality. At f/2.8 on the long end, the lens can still create some shallow depth of field to isolate portrait subjects. And at f/1.7 on the wide end, it’ll perform well enough in most low-light situations.

The size and lens could honestly make this the best compact on the list.

The only real question is whether it’s worth the $1,595 asking price. My instinct says yes — but since this is the only camera on the list I haven’t owned (yet), I need to try one to be sure.

Buy this if you want the most flexibility in a small package with better image quality than any 1″ sensor can offer. The usual Leica style and handling will no doubt add to the overall shooting experience.

Where to Buy the Leica D-Lux 8

In the end, the best travel camera is the one you’ll actually carry and enjoy using. For me, that’s often the Fuji X100VI — but I’ve loved using all of these for different reasons. Whether you’re after the stealth of a GR or the flexibility of the Sony, there’s something here that will help you make better memories — and better photos. This article will help you decide if it’s time to upgrade to a proper camera from your phone.

Drop a hint: share my Best Gifts for Photographers list with the people buying for you this year — they’ll thank you for making it easy.

Last Updated December 25th 2025: These are the exact settings I’m still using on my Fujifilm X100VI going into 2026. I’ve continued shooting with this setup across multiple trips in the Philippines, including Moalboal, Cebu, and it remains my preferred configuration for travel photography. These are also the settings that I will use when I move to Scotland in January 2026. Nothing here is theoretical — this reflects long-term, real-world use. I’ll only change these settings if my shooting needs genuinely change.

I’ll continue using the X100VI as it’s one of my favourite cameras and will update this article whenever I feel I can add some value. In the meantime, I’ll link to my free e-book and setup files (you can load these on to your camera so you don’t have to set it up yourself). If you’re looking for the best system cameras for travel photography then see the article I wrote here but in my opinion, the X100VI is still one of the top compact cameras for travel.

If you have not picked up your travel photography kit yet then here are my recommendations.

If you prefer, I’ve put all this information — and more — into a free quick setup guide, along with downloadable setup files you can load straight onto your camera. Click here to get it.

Basic Shooting Setup

I shoot in Aperture Priority most of the time. It’s quick, and when you’re shooting once-in-a-lifetime moments, that matters.

To enable Aperture Priority:

• Set the Shutter Speed dial to A
• Set the ISO dial to A
• Then control aperture via the lens ring

The focus mode selector is on the front-left of the camera:

• I use C (Continuous AF) for moving subjects or when I’m moving
• I switch to S (Single AF) for more deliberate shooting where I want precise focus placement

You can toggle between the OVF and EVF using the front lever. Use whichever you prefer.

SD Cards: Use a good quality card — the X100VI only has one slot. I recommend SanDisk Extreme Pro cards. I’ve used hundreds and never had a single issue.

Batteries: At least one spare is a must. More if you’re off-grid.

Weather Sealing: The X100VI isn’t weather sealed unless you add a filter adapter and filter. This is essential for travel — not just for rain, but also dust and sand. I use the ones below and have found it a great setup.

Image Backup: I use a compact rugged SanDisk SSD to back up each day’s shots.

Essential Travel Kit — Don’t Miss Out

This is the exact kit I travel with — reliable, compact, and tested in the real world. Get yours while it’s available.

• SanDisk Extreme Pro SD Card
• Fujifilm NP-W126S Spare Battery
• Haoge Adapter Ring & Lens Hood
• Urth UV Filter
• SanDisk Extreme Portable SSD

These are affiliate links — using them helps support the site at no extra cost to you. Thanks!

Menu Settings

Image Quality Setting

• Image Size: 3:2
• Image Quality: F+RAW
• RAW Recording: Lossless
• Select HEIF/JPEG: JPEG
• Film Simulation: Classic Chrome
• Grain Effect: Off
• Color Chrome Effect: Weak
• Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak
• Smooth Skin Effect: Off
• White Balance: Auto (Ambience Priority)
• Dynamic Range: 100
• D-Range Priority: Off
• Tone Curve: 0 / 0
• Colour: +2
• Sharpness: -2
• High ISO NR: -4
• Clarity: 0
• Long Exposure NR: On
• Color Space: sRGB

AF/MF Setting Menu

• Focus Area: Centred
• AF Mode: Zone
• Zone Custom Setting: Custom 1 (5×3 grid)
• AF Mode All Setting: Ignore
• AF-C Custom Settings: Mode 1
• Store AF Mode by Orientation: Off
• AF Point Display: Off
• Wrap Focus: Enable
• Pre-AF: Off
• AF Illuminator: Off
• Face/Eye Detect: Off
• Subject Detection: Off
• AF+MF: On
• MF Assist: Peak > Red > High
• Interlock MF Assist & Focus Ring: Off
• Focus Check: Off
• Interlock Spot AE & Focus Area: On
• Release/Focus Priority:
  • AF-S: Focus
  • AF-C: Release
• AF Range Limiter: Off
• Touch Screen Mode: Off
• Corrected AF Frame: Off

Note: I generally shoot in AF-C for candid or fast-moving shots.
When I want more control, I switch to AF-S and use AF Mode > Single Point with the second smallest box.

Shooting Settings

• Photometry: Multi
  • (Use Spot for high contrast scenes)
• Shutter Type: M+E
  • (Switches to electronic above 1/4000 sec)
• IS Mode: Continuous
• ISO Auto Setting (Auto 1):
  • Default Sensitivity: 125
  • Max Sensitivity: 6400
  • Min Shutter Speed: 1/400

Custom Functions & Film Recipes

Sound Setting

• Operation Volume: Off

Screen Setting

• EVF Brightness: Auto +1
• Image Display: Off
• Auto Rotate Displays: On
• Preview Exposure/WB in Manual Mode: EXP/WB
• Natural Live View: Off
• Auto Rotate Playback: Off
• Disp. Custom Settings (EVF/LCD):
  • Focus Frame
  • Focus Indicator
  • MF Distance Indicator
  • Histogram
  • Aperture / Shutter Speed / ISO
  • Exposure Comp (scale)
  • Film Simulation
  • Frames Remaining
  • No Storage Media Warning
  • Battery Level
• Location Info: On
• Menu Background: Transparent

Power Management

• Auto Power Off: 2 minutes
• Performance: Normal
• Auto Power Off Temp: Standard

Save Data Setting

• Geo Tagging: On
  • (Enable via Fuji X App)

Final Thoughts

I’ve loved the Fujifilm X100 series ever since I spent over a year travelling with the X100T. Why 23mm became my favourite focal length. The X100VI needs a few tweaks to get it working just right, but hopefully these settings give you a solid starting point.

If you’re going to be using your X100VI a lot, I’ve also written an article on the best accessories to make it more comfortable and practical. Every item in there is something I personally use on my own X100VI.

Here’s the X100VI accessories article if you want to take a look.

I have access to and use a lot of cameras yet I choose to travel with an Olympus OM-D E-M5II. Here are just 7 reasons why Micro 4/3 offers the best cameras for travel photography.

1. Size and weight

Cameras like the Olympus OM-D E-M5 II, Pen F and Panasonic GX-8 are small, light and well-built cameras.

Today, the latest OM System and Panasonic bodies like the OM-3 or G9 II build on everything I loved about those cameras — faster AF, better EVFs, and even more powerful image stabilization.

When you are looking for a camera for travel photography you have to consider just how much you want to carry with you. Yes the Sony A series are in some cases equally as small but then add in a decent zoom lens and a couple of primes and the difference in weight grows substantially. I carry with me an Olympus EM5II, Olympus HLD 8 battery grip, Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro, Olympus 25mm f/1.8, 45mm f/1.8 and 75mm f/1.8. My Olympus system feels modular in nature. I can choose to go from really small and light using just the EM5II and the 25mm 1.8 or I can add the grip and use the 12-40mm Pro lens on the fully gripped body for extra battery life when I am on extended shoots.

2. Image Quality

Cameras from Olympus and Panasonic offer me a lightweight system without compromising on image quality. Some people will say you need a full frame camera and you may, if you specifically want the most shallow depth of field possible and the best high ISO noise performance. However if most of your photography is not shot in pitch black conditions at night and you don’t just want one eye in focus for portraits then Micro 4/3 is more than capable.

The differences between Micro 4/3 and APS-C in anything below 3200 ISO are negligible. In fact in a blind test I would be willing to bet 95% of people could not tell what sized sensor was used between the two. It more than meets the standards needed to submit your photos to stock photography sites and earn some cash to pay for all those trips. Add in the incredible in-body image stabilisation and you can shoot at much lower ISO’s than using other cameras without IS. So not only can you shoot at lower ISO’s to give the best possible image quality but you may not need to drag your tripod with you everywhere. The OM-D E-M1 Mark II allows you to get sharp hand-held shots at shutter speeds of 1 second and longer. I have printed 30×20″ prints from Micro 4/3 and hung them and most importantly sold them in galleries. They stand up well when proper technique is used.

Image quality is great on Micro 4/3. Prints up to 30×20″ at gallery quality, more than good enough to sell for stock. What more do you need?

3. Lens Choice

Micro 4/3 offers a huge range of lenses so that whatever your shooting style there is bound to be a lens that fits. The system has lenses from the tiny Panasonic 14mm f/2.5 up to Pro grade zooms like the Olympus 300mm f/4. In general the lenses are very sharp. I love the results from my Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro. I’d go as far as to say it is my favourite zoom lens of any system (and I have used a lot of Canon L glass and the Nikon 2.8 zooms). Want the best value portrait lens in the World? Pick up the Olympus 45mm f/1.8 for around £200 and you got it. That little lens is sharp and incredible value. It also takes up virtually no weight in your bag.

My Olympus prime lenses. From left to right the 25mm 1.8, 45mm 1.8 and 75mm 1.8.
I find that these complement my 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro lens perfectly.

Take a look at the huge range of Micro 4/3 lenses available here 

4.Electronic Viewfinder.

When you are considering which camera is best for travel photography you have to remember that often you don’t have a lot of time to get the shot. You may be working on a deadline or maybe your family are waiting for you and asking you to hurry up because they want dinner. If you are using a standard DSLR with an optical viewfinder it is quite likely that you will take the shot and then have to check it on your rear LCD screen to see if the exposure is correct, is it in focus, how are the colours etc. I remember shooting with a Canon 5D MK II for years and as good as that camera was, there was a process required to get the shot that I wanted. It involved checking my image on the rear LCD screen, then correcting the exposure, re-shooting and so on. It might often take 5 shots to get everything perfect. All the time your family are giving you that look that says, we are bored now, hurry up. With an electronic viewfinder what you see in the viewfinder is what you get in your final image. No more chimping on the rear screen afterwards. Select your settings and take the picture. You already know that you got the shot. Now it’s time to go and enjoy dinner with a happy family.

5. Image Stabilisation

I cannot overstate how useful it is to have image stabilisation built-in to the camera body. There are so many benefits. It increases your keeper rate. No more blurry photos because you had too much coffee that morning and your hands were shaking. No more worrying about getting sharp food shots when you are in poor light in that restaurant. Simply select the ISO, aperture and shutter speed you want and the IS system will do the rest. Tack sharp food shots and great IQ because you could use a lower ISO setting. Don’t want to lug a tripod around with you. No problem as the latest in body IS has you covered for shutter speeds as low as a few seconds. Not only does this allow you to keep your ISO low but it gives you creative flexibility to use slower shutter speeds in order to blur water or show movement without having to carry tripods. Your travel photography will become more creative and your back will thank you later.

In-body IS means that you can leave your tripod at home more often.

6. Discretion

I have traveled to every continent except the Antarctic. I have lived in many countries and one thing that I have always found is that with a smaller camera you can take photos without attracting too much attention. If you are carrying around a hulking great DSLR with Pro f/2.8 lens attached then you stand out like a sore thumb in many countries. It also feels a little awkward when you are carrying around gear that costs more than the average annual salary of a worker in some countries. Being discreet allows you to blend in (or at least not stand out as much) and get photos that just wouldn’t be possible with a DSLR and huge white lens attached. When people see DSLR’s they get a little camera shy, their expressions often change and they may even wish to avoid being photographed altogether. Pull out your cute looking Olympus Pen F and it is a totally different story. You will look like a tourist, an amatuer but that’s great, Just what you want because you know that inside your ‘cute’ ‘inexpensive’ looking camera the image that you just captured is just as good as your DSLR could have done.

7.Video.

If you’re a striving creative who wants to add to their skill set and portfolio then you will probably want to get in to video. It is a great way to bring your audience with you and show them the beauty of the places that you visit. Micro 4/3 offers all of the above benefits while giving impressive video quality. My OM-D E-M5II offers full HD video at up to 60 frames per second. That allows for some slow motion capture . It even has the ability to create slow motion in camera. Combine the decent video quality with in built image stabilisation and it is no longer a chore to set up and create travel videos to go along side your photos. The Olympus OM-D Em1 II offers 4k video with excellent quality. If you are really serious about video then Micro 4/3 offers the best video camera below a full blown pro rig in the form of the Panasonic GH5. It gives you Internal 4K/30p 10-bit 4:2:2, 4K/59.94p and 50p shooting with 10-bit 4:2:2 external output or 8-bit, 4:2:0 internal at 150Mbps IPB, 1080 video at up to 180p, Pre-config rack focus mode, Waveform and vectorscope monitors, Paid upgrade for V-Log video capture with preview display using luts. This will be my next investment as I get more and more in to video work.

So there you have 7 reasons why Micro 4/3 make the best cameras for travel photography. I didn’t even mention that they offer some of the best built and most weather sealed cameras, the benefits of the 2x crop factor for wildlife shots or that manufacturers such as Olympus often upgrade the cameras throughout their life cycle to add improvements and new features. That is the sort of customer service and product support that gives me confidence to buy their cameras.

If you want to look in more detail at how Micro 4/3 compares against APS-C sensors then I did a comparison here

Want to make sure you get the sharpest photos possible then check out my article here

If you want to buy any of the cameras mentioned in this article then you can do so at no extra cost by purchasing through my Amazon links. Thank you if you make any purchases as it really does help me to keep this site going.

What camera do you use for your travel photography? I’d love to hear your thoughts below.

As many of you will know I have been living in the Philippines for about 3 years now. I first visited these beautiful islands in 2006, attracted by the natural beauty and friendly reputation of the people here.

With the fairly recent election of President Duterte and his infamous ‘war on drugs’ many people ask me if it is still safe to travel to the Philippines.

The simple answer to that is yes but as with anywhere in the World you should keep your whits about you and follow some basic rules so that you know how to travel safely in the Philippines.

The Philippines is made up of over 7000 exotic islands and almost all are what I would consider safe to travel to.

The only exception to this is the south western side of the island of Mindanao in the south around the area of Zamboanga where there is a heightened threat of kidnapping of foreign nationals by Muslim groups such as Abu Saayef.

Make sure to check out your countries Foreign office website to keep up with the latest travel warnings.

I find the British and American websites to offer the latest and most up to date travel advice within the Philippines. You can find links to their page below:

British Foreign and Commonwealth Office 

United States Embassy travel warnings 

What is the situation on the ground?

I live in Cebu province and as you can see from the map above even the southern end of this island is subject to a travel warning. I regularly travel in the south of Cebu province and get the ferry over to Dumaguete on the next island of Negros oriental. Sometimes there are armed guards around the port and sometimes there aren’t. When travelling int he Philippines don’t be alarmed at the sight of armed security guards, armed police and even seeing soldiers at various ports and places as this is quite normal. These people are here for your protection and as you become used to the way of life here it becomes something that you simply accept and don’t notice in every day life.

I can honestly say (coming from a fairly normal UK city) that I feel safer in the Philippines than I do on a Friday night in the city centre of most UK cities. I have never once got in to trouble with a local and by and large the people here are incredibly friendly, respectful and hospitable.

I was living here before Duterte came in to power and nothing has changed on the ground in terms of everyday life.

If you do as you would do in your own country and stay away from drugs, avoid drinking heavily and act respectfully towards people then unless you are very unlucky you should not have any trouble when travelling in the Philippines.

The few problems I have seen are in my mind usually avoidable. ie guys get into fights when they are drunk at 3am in the morning and wander in to the wrong part of town. Well that could be true of any country that I have ever visited.

How to stay safe in the Philippines

Here are a few basic tips to minimise the risk of getting in to any trouble when you are here.

1. When you arrive (presumably at Manila) be aware that as a foreign tourist you will be targeted by taxi drivers as you exit the airport. Some of these guys are trying to take advantage of the fact that you are new here and don’t know the cost of getting to your hotel or destination. They will try and charge you 1000 pesos for a journey that when metered is only a couple of hundred pesos. The easiest way to avoid these guys is to simply say no thank you I will get a metered taxi. Once they realise that you know this is an option they will usually move on to someone else. The metered taxis all line up outside the airport and you will know where they are because all the Filipinos get them. If you are unsure just ask one of the many guards and they will show you.
2. The nicest areas of Manila are BGC (Bonifacio Global City) with lots of expats , restaurants and a very safe atmosphere. In particular Mckinley Hill is lovely. Makati which is the business district, offers lots of high end accommodation and again is pretty safe.
3. Don’t look like a victim and you are unlikely to be one. Be confident when in the Philippines because most people will be happy to help you to find your way around.
4. Don’t show off your expensive camera, watch, jewellry etc. This goes without saying when you are visiting any country in my opinion and is just common sense. If you don’t show your wealth then you will not attract the attention of thieves and pickpockets.
5. Use some of the local language and you will immediately find that Filipinos open up and are happy that you made the effort to learn a little bit of their native tongue. Smile and throw in a few words of Tagalog (in Manila) or Bisaya (if in the Visayas) and you are already seen in a more favourable light compared to English only speakers. Whenever I jump in a taxi I always greet the taxi driver with muxta po (in Tagalog) or muxta Kuya (Bisaya) (both pronounced Musta) meaning how are you brother or friend. This has two benefits. It shows that you make the effort to know a little of the language and it also makes the taxi driver aware that you perhaps know a little of the language and culture. In turn this makes them less likely to try and rip you off.
6. In the Philippines as a foreigner you will often be offered an alcoholic drink by locals wanting you to join their group. Smile have fun but don’t drink what they offer you unless you know these people or are with a local friend who knows them. In general it is most likely harmless and simply a kind offer of hospitality. However there are 2 reasons why I don’t like to do this. First is that you don’t know what is in that drink you are being offered. It may be drugged (highly unlikely but still). Secondly if you get drunk with a bunch of guys that you don’t know then it may just be tempting for them to relieve you of your money, wallet, valuables. In Cebu smile and say dli ko, salamat (I dont want it, thank you). Just be pleasant and make light of it and you will always get a smile back.
7. Don’t overpay for things in the Philippines. Yes everything can seem cheap when you come here but remember that you will be much more respected by Filipinos if you pay the going rate for something than if you keep getting ripped off. See what the locals pay and if you are feeling generous add a small tip. For example if someone helps you to carry your bags from the taxi to a bus etc a Filipino might give a 5-10 pesos tip. If you pay over the top for everything then you put the price up for local people.
8. Don’t give money to beggars. They are often part of a gang working the streets. They will carry babies, make hand gestures as if to say I need to feed my baby and basically do anything to make you feel guilty. I never give money to beggars because once you do (and this has happened to me) a whole load more will suddenly appear as they tell their friends that foreigner just gave me x amount of money. If i like the person and they seem genuine I will buy them something to eat.
9. Just use your common sense and don’t do something or go somewhere that you wouldn’t when in your own country. That is easily the number one piece of advice here. Use your instincts as they are normally right. If you wouldn’t walk down a dimly lit street at night in your home town then don’t do it here.
10. Don’t get scammed on a dating website. If you meet a girl and within hours she is telling you that she loves you, her mum is sick, she is a student but can’t afford to finish the course or she would love to talk more to you but she needs load for her cellphone, let those alarm bells go off in your head loud and clear. She IS intending to scam you for as much money as possible. Do not send money online to people that you don’t know. Or if you are going to then send it to me instead

Most of all when planning your trip to the Philippines if you stick to the above advice and use your common sense then I am sure that you will have a fantastic, safe trip. It really is a beautiful country and the people rightly have a reputation as among the most friendly and hospitable in the World.

As I live and work here this post is the first in a series of blogs that I will be writing about the Philippines. Upcoming articles will include some of the best places to visit along with blogs about my families travels here.

I would love to hear any tips from you about travelling safely in the Philippines or anywhere else. Have you already visited the Philippines or maybe you live here and have some great tips for other readers. Please add them to the comments below.