I chose the Fuji XT5 and X100Vi for documentary photography after considering a number of cameras and systems. To see why, read on below:
If you’d rather watch than read then see my video.
When it comes to documentary photography, especially for a personal project like mine, choosing the right camera is crucial. My current project is deeply personal—it’s about honoring my late father by photographing the places in Devon and Cornwall that were important to him. These locations, from rugged coastlines to misty moorlands, represent the life he lived, and I want to capture them with the same care and attention to detail that they deserve.
For this project, I’m using two exceptional cameras: the Fujifilm X100Vi and the Fujifilm XT5 paired with a 35mm f2 lens. These cameras were not chosen randomly; they each bring unique qualities that make them ideal tools for documentary work. In this post, I’ll explain why these Fujifilm cameras are my go-to for such a meaningful documentary project, and why any documentary photographer should consider them.
The Importance of Choosing the Right Camera for Documentary Photography
Documentary photography is all about storytelling. It’s about capturing real moments, often in challenging conditions, without the luxury of setting up the perfect shot. As a photographer, you need a camera that not only delivers exceptional image quality but also allows you to focus on the story unfolding in front of you, rather than getting bogged down by technical settings.
For this project, I needed a camera setup that could do just that. I wanted a combination that would allow me to capture high-quality images for large prints, offer a look that complements the documentary style, and be portable enough for the long treks across Dartmoor and the coastline where I’ll be shooting.
Why I Chose the Fujifilm X100Vi for This Project
The Fujifilm X100Vi is one of the most talked-about cameras in the photography world, and for good reason. For my father’s documentary project, it’s the perfect companion for several key reasons:
1. Fixed 35mm Focal Length
The X100Vi features a fixed 23mm f2 lens, equivalent to 35mm on a full-frame camera. This focal length is ideal for documentary photography—it’s wide enough to capture landscapes and environmental shots, yet intimate enough to photograph people and details. One of the best aspects of using a fixed focal length is that it removes the indecision that often comes with choosing lenses. For this project, I don’t want to be constantly switching lenses or wondering which one to take. I grab the X100Vi, and I’m ready to shoot, trusting the focal length to adapt to any situation.
2. Classic Chrome Film Simulation
Fujifilm is renowned for its film simulations, and for this project, I’m primarily using Classic Chrome. This film simulation provides a muted, cinematic look that’s perfect for documentary work. It gives my photos a timeless feel, which is exactly what I want when capturing places that hold such historical and emotional significance. The look of Classic Chrome aligns beautifully with the tone I’m trying to achieve—nothing overly stylized, but rather authentic and true to the environment.
3. Compact and Lightweight Design
Carrying gear across Dartmoor or along the rugged Cornish coastline requires something lightweight. The X100Vi is compact and easy to carry, which means I can focus more on the locations and the experience rather than lugging around heavy equipment. Its discreet size also allows me to shoot in more intimate or busy environments without drawing too much attention, which is crucial for capturing authentic, unposed moments.
4. Timeless Design and Emotional Connection
The X100Vi isn’t just a tool; it’s a camera that puts me in the right emotional space to work on such a personal project. Its rangefinder-style design feels timeless, like the places I’m documenting. The simplicity of its controls keeps the technical aspects out of the way, allowing me to focus on the emotional connection I have with the locations. The camera becomes an extension of my vision rather than a distraction.
Why I Pair the Fujifilm XT5 with a 35mm f2 Lens
While the X100Vi is fantastic for most of my needs, there are times when I want a little more flexibility, and that’s where the Fujifilm XT5 comes in. Paired with the 35mm f2 lens, it offers a perfect balance between versatility and simplicity for documentary work.
1. 40MP Sensor for High-Quality Prints
The XT5 boasts Fujifilm’s latest 40MP sensor, which is a huge advantage for a project like this. I plan to print many of these images for a zine and for large-format prints that will be displayed in my home and studio. The detail that the XT5 provides is perfect for creating high-quality prints, even at large sizes, without sacrificing sharpness or clarity.
2. Flexibility with the 35mm f2 Lens
Although the X100Vi’s fixed 35mm focal length is fantastic, the XT5 gives me the option to change lenses if needed. For this project, I’ve chosen to stick with the 35mm f2, which gives me a consistent field of view and allows for easy transitions between the two cameras. The 35mm focal length is one of the most versatile, making it ideal for capturing landscapes, architecture, and even more intimate portraits.
3. Classic Chrome for a Consistent Look
Just like with the X100Vi, I’m using Classic Chrome on the XT5 to maintain a consistent look throughout the project. This uniformity in color and tone is crucial when shooting across different locations and conditions. Whether I’m photographing the misty hills of Dartmoor or the sunlit shores of Cornwall, Classic Chrome ensures that my images remain cohesive.
4. Weather Sealing for Rugged Conditions
Much of this project will be shot in unpredictable weather, particularly on Dartmoor and the Cornish coastline. The XT5 is weather-sealed, making it perfect for shooting in rain, mist, or even strong coastal winds. I don’t want to worry about my gear when I’m out in the field, and the XT5 gives me the peace of mind that it can handle whatever conditions I encounter.
5. Controls That Get Out of the Way
One of the reasons I love Fujifilm cameras is that their controls are simple and intuitive. On the XT5, the dedicated dials for ISO, shutter speed, and aperture allow me to adjust settings quickly without diving into menus. For documentary photography, where moments can pass in an instant, these physical dials are invaluable. They allow me to stay focused on the scene in front of me, rather than on my camera.
The Perfect Combination for Documentary Photography
For this project, the combination of the Fujifilm X100Vi and XT5 with the 35mm f2 lens provides the perfect balance between simplicity, image quality, and versatility. Whether I’m shooting in challenging weather on Dartmoor or capturing the intimate details of a coastal scene, these cameras deliver everything I need.
Small and lightweight enough for long hikes and discrete shooting, weather-sealed for unpredictable conditions, and equipped with the Classic Chrome film simulation for a consistent, documentary-style look, these cameras are helping me tell a story that’s incredibly personal.
When it comes to documentary photography, I don’t want to be distracted by gear or technicalities. I want a camera setup that works seamlessly with my vision, and the Fujifilm X100Vi and XT5 do exactly that. Their timeless design and thoughtful controls put me in the right frame of mind to focus on what really matters—the story I’m trying to tell through my images.
Conclusion
If you’re a documentary photographer or simply working on a personal project that requires reliable, high-quality gear, I can’t recommend the Fujifilm X100Vi and XT5 enough. These cameras offer everything you need to create powerful images without getting in the way of your creative process. The 40MP sensor, Classic Chrome film simulation, compact size, and weather sealing make them ideal for any photographer looking to capture meaningful stories in unpredictable environments.
To follow along with my documentary photography projects and see the latest videos be sure to watch my Youtube channel. You can also get more personal stories by heading on over the my personal website.
If you want to see how to setup your Fuji XT5 then check out my article here
By simplifying my gear choices, I’ve been able to focus entirely on what matters most: the story. These cameras don’t just help me capture images—they help me stay connected to the project and honour my father’s memory through photography.
How I Cured Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS) and Focused on My Photography Goals
I’ve finally learnt how to overcome gear acquisition syndrome in photography and I’d like to share what helped me.
In today’s fast-paced world of photography, it’s easy to get caught up in the endless cycle of buying new gear. Whether it’s the latest camera body, a new lens, or other accessories, many photographers experience Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS) at some point. I know I did. Over the last 10 years of my non-professional photography journey, I owned far too many cameras, constantly upgrading and switching gear in search of the next best thing. However, I realized something important: buying more gear wasn’t making me a better photographer.
In this blog post, I’ll explain how I cured GAS, simplified my photography kit, and redirected my focus towards what really matters: creating meaningful photographic work and achieving my personal photography goals. This shift has not only improved my photography but has also allowed me to regain the joy of shooting, unburdened by the pressure of owning the latest and greatest gear.
If you are already over the GAS stage then head on over to my personal blog where this week I discuss the work of Ernst Haas
How to overcome gear acquisition syndrome in photography.
Firstly, What Is Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS)?
Before we dive into how I cured it, let’s talk about what Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS) actually is. GAS is the constant desire to purchase new photography equipment, even when it’s not necessary. You might convince yourself that a new camera body or a specific lens will take your photography to the next level, or you feel pressure to keep up with the latest gear trends, thinking it will improve your work. While upgrading your gear can be useful in some cases, it often becomes a distraction from what truly matters: the art and purpose behind your photography.
My Personal Struggle with GAS
In the past 10 years, I fell into the trap of constantly upgrading my equipment. I’ve owned countless cameras, ranging from entry-level DSLRs to advanced mirrorless systems. I’d read reviews, watch videos, and believe that each new piece of gear would somehow transform my photography. However, during the 5 years I spent as a professional photographer, I only had two cameras—and that was more than enough. Back then, I was entirely focused on the work, not the gear.
Lightroom Metadata showing just some of my cameras
As I transitioned into a non-professional photography role, I found myself paying more attention to the latest gear releases and less attention to what I was actually photographing. I became obsessed with having the latest technology, thinking it would make me a better photographer. But deep down, I knew it wasn’t the gear that mattered—it was my vision and technique.
Notice how few shots I’m actually taking with each camera
The Turning Point: Focusing on What Matters
After years of chasing gear, I started asking myself some serious questions about what I really wanted from photography. What is the purpose of my work? What kind of photography do I want to create? The answer was clear: I wanted to create story-driven, meaningful photography, focusing on social and environmental projects. Gear was simply a tool to achieve those goals, not the goal itself.
Photographers Like Ernst Haas used minimal gear
At that moment, I decided to simplify my gear collection and focus on only what I needed to produce the kind of photographic work I care about. By streamlining my kit, I stopped thinking about the latest tech and started thinking more about the techniques and projects that would help me achieve my goals.
Simplifying My Gear
One of the first steps I took to cure GAS was to significantly reduce the number of cameras I owned. I now focus on just a few key pieces of equipment that I need for the work I want to do. Instead of constantly switching between camera bodies and lenses, I’ve honed in on a setup that works for me: the Fuji X100Vi and Fuji XT5, along with a couple of small, versatile prime lenses. These cameras allow me to capture the images I need without the distraction of having too many choices.
Don McCullin, a great photographer used simple gear to capture his incredible stories
By limiting my gear, I’ve noticed that my creativity and focus have increased. I’m no longer wasting time researching the next camera upgrade or worrying about whether my gear is good enough. I’m able to concentrate on my photography projects, honing my skills, and telling the stories that matter to me.
Refocusing My Photography and YouTube Channel
This shift in mindset has not only impacted my photography but also the direction of my YouTube channel. When I first started making videos, a lot of the content was focused on gear reviews and comparisons. But as I’ve re-evaluated my goals, I’ve realized that I don’t want my channel to be about gear anymore. Instead, I want to focus on photography techniques, the projects I’m working on, and the inspiration behind my work.
My future content will highlight photography as an art form and how we can use it to tell meaningful stories, whether those are personal projects or broader social or environmental issues. Of course, I’ll still mention gear when it’s relevant to a project, but it will no longer be the focus of my channel. My goal is to connect with like-minded people who care more about the purpose behind photography than the equipment we use.
How You Can Overcome GAS
If you’re struggling with Gear Acquisition Syndrome, here are a few tips to help you break free and refocus on your photography goals:
Ask yourself why you need new gear: Do you really need that new camera, or are you just upgrading because it’s the latest trend? Think critically about whether new gear will truly improve your photography or if you’re just falling into the trap of consumerism.
Focus on your photographic goals: What kind of photography do you want to create? Whether it’s street photography, documentary work, or creative portraiture, think about the type of work you want to produce and what gear you actually need to achieve those goals.
Simplify your kit: By reducing the amount of gear you own, you’ll spend less time thinking about equipment and more time taking photos. Limiting your options can also boost creativity by forcing you to work within constraints.
Shift your mindset: Stop thinking of gear as the answer to better photography. Instead, focus on improving your skills, mastering the tools you already have, and working on meaningful projects that inspire you.
Conclusion: Gear Isn’t Everything
For a long time, I thought that having the best gear would make me a better photographer, but I’ve since learned that this isn’t the case. Photography is about storytelling, creativity, and technique—not the latest camera or lens. By curing my Gear Acquisition Syndrome and focusing on my goals, I’ve rediscovered the joy of photography and am more motivated than ever to work on projects that truly matter.
If you’ve been struggling with GAS or feel like gear is distracting you from your creative goals, I hope this post helps you refocus on what’s really important in your photography journey.
Fuji XT5 vs X100VI for Street Photography: A Detailed Comparison
When it comes to street photography, trying to decide between the Fuji XT5 vs X100Vi can be tough. Fujifilm has always been a top choice for photographers who want a balance of exceptional image quality and classic design. Two of the most popular options right now are the Fuji XT5 and the highly sought-after X100VI. Both of these cameras bring Fujifilm’s signature features and performance to the table, but in very different ways.
With the X100VI being notoriously hard to find in stock, many photographers are considering the XT5, paired with one of Fuji’s compact prime lenses like the 23mm f/2 or the 35mm f/2, as a potential alternative. While both cameras share the same 40MP X-Trans 5 sensor and the latest film simulations, they offer unique handling experiences. So, how do they compare, and which one might be the better fit for you?
In this post, I’ll dive into the key differences between the Fuji XT5 and X100VI for street photography. If you want to know which one I recommend, make sure to watch my YouTube video at the end for my full review and detailed opinion.
Fuji XT5 vs X100Vi – Image Quality: A Level Playing Field
First and foremost, let’s talk about image quality. Both the XT5 and X100VI are equipped with Fujifilm’s latest 40MP APS-C X-Trans 5 sensor, so you can expect the same level of image quality from both cameras. Whether you’re shooting in bright sunlight or low light, both cameras deliver sharp, detailed images with excellent color rendering and dynamic range.
One of the reasons I love Fujifilm is the variety of film simulations available, and both the XT5 and X100VI come with the full set, including the newer Reala Ace simulation. These film simulations are particularly useful in street photography, where you can quickly switch between different color tones or black and white without needing to spend time in post-processing.
In terms of autofocus performance, I’ve found both cameras to be very similar. They offer fast and accurate autofocus, which is essential for street photography when you need to capture moments quickly. The XT5, when paired with Fuji’s f/2 prime lenses, feels a little quicker because the lenses are virtually silent, whereas the X100VI’s fixed lens does produce a bit of noise due to its focus motors.
—
Design and Handling: Compact vs. Versatile
Now, let’s get into where these cameras really differ – design and handling.
Fujifilm X100VI: Compact and Discreet
Notice how flush the LCD screen is on the X100Vi
The X100VI is known for its compact size and portability, making it an excellent choice for photographers who want to be discreet while shooting on the street. It features a fixed 23mm f/2 lens (35mm full-frame equivalent), which is a fantastic focal length for street photography, offering a good balance between wide-angle and standard field of view. I’ve shot everything from portraits to travel photos with this focal length, and it works well for most situations.
The hybrid viewfinder on the X100VI is one of its standout features. It gives you the option of an optical viewfinder with an electronic overlay, or a fully electronic viewfinder. The optical viewfinder can be particularly useful in street photography because it lets you see subjects entering the frame before they’re captured, helping you time your shots more effectively. It also offers focus aids like magnified view and focus peaking, which can help when you’re shooting manually.
However, the grip on the X100VI is small. While it contributes to the camera’s compact size, I’ve found it a bit uncomfortable for longer shooting sessions, especially when shooting one-handed. To improve handling, I’ve added a SmallRig thumb rest and a grip extender, which makes it much more comfortable to use over extended periods.
Fujifilm XT5: Versatility with Interchangeable Lenses
On the other hand, the Fuji XT5 offers a more traditional DSLR-like design, with a larger body and central viewfinder hump. While it’s not as compact as the X100VI, it’s still relatively small and portable, especially when paired with one of Fuji’s compact prime lenses, such as the 23mm f/2 or 35mm f/2. This gives the XT5 an edge in terms of versatility, as you can switch lenses to suit different shooting situations.
The grip on the XT5 is larger, providing a more comfortable hold for longer shoots. I prefer to add a SmallRig grip when I know I’ll be shooting for an extended period, but even without it, the XT5 offers enough purchase to hold the camera securely. The 3-way tilting screen on the XT5 is also a nice touch, allowing for more flexible shooting angles, especially in portrait orientation. In contrast, the X100VI’s screen only tilts in two directions, but it’s sleeker and flush to the body, giving the camera a very streamlined appearance.
—
Controls and Customization: Traditional Fujifilm Dials
Both the XT5 and X100VI feature external control dials for shutter speed, ISO, and (when paired with a lens that has an aperture ring) aperture, which makes them both intuitive to use. This is one of the things I love most about Fujifilm cameras – the ability to quickly change settings without diving into menus.
X100VI: Compact Control Setup
The X100VI has a more streamlined control layout, with fewer physical buttons compared to the XT5. The ISO dial is integrated into the shutter speed dial, which can be adjusted with just one hand while shooting. I find this particularly useful in fast-paced environments like street photography, where every second counts. However, the X100VI relies more heavily on its touchscreen for navigating certain settings.
XT5: Extra Customization
The XT5 offers a bit more customization with the inclusion of a D-pad on the back, allowing for more function buttons and quicker access to frequently used settings. This can be a real advantage if you like to tweak your settings on the go. Additionally, the XT5 has dual SD card slots, which is useful if you’re shooting in RAW or want the peace of mind of having a backup card.
In-Use Experience: Portability vs. Flexibility
The X100vi’s LCD screen only articulates in two directionsThe XT5’s 3 way articulating screen is more flexible
When it comes to real-world use, there are a few factors that might influence your decision.
Portability: X100VI
If you prioritize portability and discretion, the X100VI is hard to beat. Its leaf shutter is quieter than the XT5’s mechanical shutter, making it less noticeable in quiet environments. The fixed 23mm lens doesn’t protrude far from the camera body, giving the X100VI a very compact profile, and its built-in flash is great for adding a touch of fill light in backlit situations. The 4-stop ND filter is another handy feature that lets you shoot wide open in bright light without needing to attach any external accessories.
Flexibility: XT5
On the flip side, the XT5 offers much more flexibility thanks to its interchangeable lenses. While the 23mm f/2 lens on the XT5 gives a similar field of view to the X100VI, the ability to switch lenses gives you more creative options. Whether you’re looking to shoot wide-angle street scenes or zoom in for a tighter portrait, the XT5 can adapt to a wider range of scenarios.
—
Battery Life and Storage
Both cameras offer USB-C charging, which is convenient when you’re out on a long day of shooting. The XT5 has a larger NP-W235 battery, which generally lasts longer than the X100VI’s NP-W126S battery. However, I find that both cameras last long enough for most street photography sessions but I always carry a spare battery in my bag.
The XT5’s dual SD card slots are a nice addition, especially if you shoot in RAW or need to back up your images on the go. The X100VI only has a single card slot, but for most street photography, this isn’t a dealbreaker.
The inclusion of the D-Pad on the XT5 means it’s more customisable
Fuji XT5 vs X100Vi – Which Camera is Best for Street Photography?
At the end of the day, both the Fuji XT5 and X100VI are excellent cameras for street photography, but they cater to slightly different needs. The X100VI offers simplicity and discretion, while the XT5 provides more versatility and customization.
If you’re still unsure which one is right for you, I’ve made a detailed video comparing these two cameras in action. Be sure to check it out on my YouTube channel, where I go into more depth about the strengths and weaknesses of each model and offer my personal recommendation based on real-world use.
if you would like to see how best to setup the Fuji XT5 for street photography then head on over to this article or this video
Fuji XT5 Street Photography Best Settings: A Complete Guide
Are you ready to take your Fuji XT5 street photography to the next level? If you’ve been searching for the best settings to optimize your camera for dynamic, fast-paced environments, you’ve come to the right place. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the key settings I use on my Fujifilm XT5, including custom function buttons and film recipes that will give your photos a distinctive look.
But if you prefer video tutorials or want to see these settings in action, I’ve put together a detailed YouTube video where I go over my full setup for street photography, including tips and examples. You can watch the video here:
Now, let’s dive into the settings.
1. Image Quality Settings
Getting the right image quality is crucial for street photography, especially when you’re shooting fast and in varied light. Here are the settings I use to ensure I capture both JPEG and RAW files:
–Image Quality: Fine JPEG + RAW
–RAW Recording: Lossless Compressed
–JPEG/HEIF: JPEG
–Film Simulation: Classic Chrome (or your choice—check out my YouTube video for more film recipe options!)
– Grain Effect: Off
– Color Chrome Effect: Off
– Color Chrome FX Blue: Off
– Smooth Skin Effect: Off
If you want to see how these settings translate to real street photography scenarios, don’t forget to check out my YouTube video where I walk you through these settings in real-time on the street.
2. White Balance & Dynamic Range Settings
These settings will help you maintain accurate colors and prevent blown-out highlights or shadows in varying lighting conditions.
– White Balance: Daylight
– Dynamic Range: Auto
– D Range Priority: Off
– Tone Curve: Default (H: 0, S: 0)
Want to see how I adjust these settings on the go in fast-changing street scenes? Be sure to watch this YouTube video for live demonstrations!
3. Color & Sharpness
Neutral colors and sharpness are essential for clean, striking images. Here are the best settings to achieve that:
– Color: 0
– Sharpness: 0
– High ISO NR: -4
– Clarity:c0
– Color Space: Adobe RGB for printing, or sRGB for general use
4. Auto Focus Settings
Street photography often happens fast, and you need autofocus settings that can keep up. Here’s what I recommend:
– Focus Area: Zone
– AF Mode: Zone
– If Using Single Point AF: Set focus points to 425
– AF Illuminator: Off
– Face/Eye Detection: Off
– MF Assist: Peaking, Red High
– Interlock Spot AE & Focus Area: On
5. Drive & ISO Settings
Quick adjustments for burst shooting and ISO sensitivity are crucial in street photography. Here’s how I set them up:
– Drive Settings:
– CH (High Burst Speed): 10 FPS
– CL (Low Burst Speed): 5 FPS – ISO Auto Setting 1:
– Default Sensitivity: 125
– Max Sensitivity: 12800
– Min Shutter Speed: 1/160
– ISO Auto Setting 2:
– Default Sensitivity: 125
– Max Sensitivity: 12800
– Min Shutter Speed: 1/100
6. Function Button Settings
Quick access to essential functions is important for efficient street shooting. Here’s my custom button setup:
– Fn1: Face Detect
– Fn2: AF Mode
– Fn3: Photometry
– Fn4: Film Simulations
– Fn5: White Balance
– AE-L: ISO Auto Setting
Film Simulations for Street Photography
One of the standout features of Fujifilm cameras is their ability to simulate classic film looks. Below are some of my favorite film simulations for street photography.
Kodak Tri-X 400
*Credit: Fuji X Weekly*
– Film Simulation: Acros
– Dynamic Range: DR200
– Grain Effect: Strong, Large
– Color Chrome Effect: Strong
– White Balance: Daylight, +9 Red, -9 Blue
– Highlight: 0
– Shadow: +3
– ISO: 1600 – 12800
This recipe gives you a timeless black-and-white look.
Kodak Ultramax 400
*Credit: Fuji X Weekly*
– Film Simulation: Classic Chrome
– Grain Effect: Strong, Large
– White Balance: Auto, +1 Red, -5 Blue
– Dynamic Range: DR Auto
– Highlight: +1
– Shadow: +1
– Color: +4
Daily Driver
This is my go-to recipe for everyday shooting:
– Film Simulation: Nostalgic Negative
– Grain Effect: Weak, Large
– Color Chrome Effect: Weak
– Dynamic Range: DR400
– Tone Curve: H -2, S +2
– Color: +3
– Sharpness: -4
It balances sharpness and color for consistent, high-quality results.
If you found these settings useful and want to see them in action, don’t miss my latest video, where I show you exactly how I set up my Fuji XT5 for street photography. Whether it’s customizing autofocus or choosing the right film simulation, I cover it all in real-time:
Fuji XT5 street photography best settings: Final thoughts
The Fujifilm XT5 is an amazing camera for street photography, but having the right settings makes all the difference. I hope this guide helps you set up your camera for success.
Fuji XT5 Street photography: Is this the perfect camera?
I have seen alot of Fuji XT5 street photography lately. As I dip my toes into the world of street photography, I find myself on the hunt to see why the XT5 is so often praised by street photographers. Recently, I’ve been exploring the Fujifilm XT5 for street photography, as it has garnered a lot of praise for its features and design. After shooting in the rainy streets of Coventry for my latest youtube video, I want to share my thoughts on how the XT5 might just be the perfect camera for someone like me who’s just starting out. If you want to see my rainy street photography experience, be sure to check out my YouTube video. For more photography tips and insights, visit my personal blog at David J. Fleet Photography Blog .
What Makes a Good Camera for Street Photography?
As a beginner (to street photography), I’ve learned that a camera for street photography should have several key characteristics:
Size and Portability
One of the first things I noticed about the Fuji XT5 is its size. It’s compact enough to carry around without feeling bulky, which is perfect for me as I wander through city streets. Being lightweight makes it easy to move quickly and blend into my surroundings, helping me capture genuine moments without drawing too much attention.
LCD Screen Design
The three-way tilt screen is another feature I love. As someone who is still getting comfortable with composing shots on the screen rather than viewfinder (for POV videos), this flexibility allows me to frame photos from different angles without attracting unwanted attention. Whether I’m shooting at waist level or getting low to the ground, this screen makes it easy to get the shot I envision.
User-Friendly Controls
The physical control dials on the XT5 offer an inspiring shooting experience. While they may feel slower than the typical PASM dials found on many cameras, I appreciate being able to check my settings visually without digging through menus. I’m often focused on capturing moments, so knowing that my settings are as I intended gives me peace of mind.
Image Quality
One of the most impressive aspects of the XT5 is its 40MP resolution. This high resolution allows me to crop images without losing quality, which is particularly useful when working with prime lenses on the street.
Discreet Design
I find the look of the XT5 appealing; it’s not as imposing as a large DSLR. This discretion is crucial for me, especially when I want to capture candid moments. A camera that looks less intimidating makes it easier to shoot natural scenes without disrupting the environment.
Custom Settings and Speed
The XT5 includes seven custom slots for saving various settings, which is incredibly helpful as I experiment with different styles and conditions. I appreciate the fact that the autofocus system is fast enough for my needs, especially when I’m out in the unpredictable nature of street photography.
Depth of Field
With its APS-C sensor, the XT5 provides extra depth of field for a given aperture compared with 35mm sensors. I find this a positive as I often want more depth of field in street shots.
Film Simulations
Fujifilm’s film simulations are very popular and for good reason. I love that I can tweak these settings to get the look I want, and often, I find myself just as happy with the JPEGs as I am with the RAW files. This feature allows me to have fun experimenting without too much editing later.
These colours are staright out of camera
My Experience Shooting in Coventry
During my recent adventure in Coventry, I was eager to test the XT5 in real-world conditions. The rain provided a unique atmosphere, and knowing the camera was weather-sealed gave me the confidence to shoot without worrying about the elements.
The compact size made it easy for me to navigate through the city, capturing spontaneous moments of daily life. The tilt screen proved invaluable as I crouched to shoot reflections in puddles, allowing me to get creative without drawing attention. The physical controls let me make quick adjustments, ensuring I was ready to capture fleeting moments.
The 40MP images I captured turned out beautifully, with rich colors and impressive details. Even after cropping for composition, the images held up remarkably well. Pairing the XT5 with Fujifilm’s compact f/2 primes made for a lightweight setup that excelled in the wet conditions.
Fujifilm XT5 street photography: is this the Perfect Camera for Beginners in Street Photography?
In my experience so far, the Fujifilm XT5 seems like a fantastic choice for someone just getting into street photography. Its combination of size, image quality, intuitive controls, and customizable features make it approachable for newcomers. My time shooting in Coventry reinforced my belief in its capabilities.
If you’re considering your first camera for street photography, I highly recommend giving the Fuji XT5 a shot. And don’t forget to check out my YouTube video for more insights and examples of the camera in action. For further discussions and tips on photography, feel free to explore my personal blog
Happy shooting, and may you capture many beautiful moments on the streets!
If you’re like me, you’ve probably been eyeing the Fujifilm X100VI with its stunning image quality and sleek design. But, like many, you might have found it nearly impossible to track one down due to its high demand and limited stock. It’s been a real challenge getting my hands on one, and I know I’m not alone in this struggle.
But here’s some good news: the perfect camera might still be within reach! While waiting for the X100VI to become available can be frustrating, I’ve been diving into the world of alternative cameras that could be just as exciting, if not more so, depending on what you’re looking for.
Imagine discovering a camera that offers innovative features and exceptional performance, all while being in stock and ready to ship. These alternatives might surprise you with their unique capabilities and design, potentially even surpassing the X100VI. Whether you’re seeking those beautiful Fuji film profiles, versatile shooting options, or a fresh take on compact camera design, there’s a whole range of choices out there.
I’ve put together an in-depth YouTube video where I explore some of the best alternatives to the Fujifilm X100VI. In this video, I share my personal insights and experiences with each camera, helping you find a great option that’s available right now.
I’m excited to share these discoveries with you and help you navigate the world of compact cameras. Click the link to watch the video, and let’s find a fantastic camera that’s actually in stock and available today.
Some of these alternatives are smaller, lighter, and even more versatile than the X100VI. The best part? They all offer equal or better image quality, and you can buy them right now.
Happy shooting, and I hope you find a camera that’s perfect for you!
I feel obliged to add a response to my previous article questioning the value of photography in this day and age.
You see, I’m a guy in my 40’s who has been a photographer for close to two decades. Over the years I have struggled with creative block as many creatives do. I have had periods of inactivity, exhaustion and non stop productivity. I have chased Instagram likes as a form of recognition for my work and also deleted all my social media. All this has often lead me to questioning the value of my photography.
A realisation came to me a few weeks ago when shooting a pre nuptial wedding shoot and looking at prints of my daugher. My photography has value in the moments and emotions captured in time. It doesn’t have to be perfect because the emotion that can be evoked when looking back through cherished photos goes deeper than technique, composition etc. Yes, all those things can add to a photo but it is the emotion captured that resonates most with the viewer.
In the past my perfectionism has lead to indecision and inaction and so I now try and live by the mantra of done is better than perfect. When I’m old and looking back on all the photos of my daughter I’ll be grateful to have so many memories, whether they are technically accomlished or not.
As a passionate photographer, I’ve embarked on a journey with the Fujifilm X-T5, a camera that goes beyond just being a tool—it’s a companion that has changed the way I see and feel about photography.
Discovering the Fujifilm X-T5:
From the moment I held the Fujifilm X-T5 in my hands, I knew there was something special about it. Its retro design, reminiscent of classic film cameras, instantly appealed to my aesthetic sensibilities. But it wasn’t just its appearance that drew me in; it was the promise of a photographic experience unlike any other. For me. photography has a soul and my cameras, or at least the best ones also have a soul and evoke emotion. The XT5 with its diminutive size, physical control dials and film simulations inspire me to create.
If you also want to feel that inspiration and are considering purchasing your own XT5 then please consider doing so through my Amazon link. This helps me to continue building this website and feed my family without costing you a penny more.
Embracing Creativity:
One of the most remarkable aspects of the Fujifilm X-T5 is its ability to inspire creativity. With its array of film simulation modes, I found myself exploring new artistic possibilities, each mode imbuing my images with a distinct mood and atmosphere. From the timeless elegance of Classic Chrome to the nostalgic warmth of Classic Neg, every frame became an expression of my creative vision.
Capturing Moments, Embracing Emotions:
What sets the Fujifilm X-T5 apart is its ability to capture not just images, but emotions. The camera’s exceptional image quality and color reproduction breathe life into every photograph, preserving the fleeting moments and emotions that define our lives. Whether it’s the joy of a my daughter’s laughter, the serenity of a sunset, or the intimacy of a candid portrait, the X-T5 elevates ordinary moments into extraordinary memories.
Connecting with the Past, Embracing the Future:
As I continue my journey with the Fujifilm X-T5, I can’t help but feel a deep connection to the rich legacy of photography. With its intuitive controls and tactile feel, the camera pays homage to the craftsmanship of analog cameras while embracing the cutting-edge technology of the digital age. It’s a perfect blend of past and present, reminding me that the true essence of photography lies not in pixels or megapixels, but in the emotions captured within each frame.
Conclusion:
In a world filled with endless distractions, the Fujifilm X-T5 along with a prime lens such as the 35mm f2, serves as a reminder to slow down, appreciate the beauty around me, and capture moments that matter. With its soulful design, unparalleled creativity, and ability to evoke emotions, it has become more than just a camera—it’s a gateway to a world of endless possibilities, where every click of the shutter is an invitation to explore, create, and connect with the world around us.
I just turned 41 and having sold my business in the last 6 months I find myself searching for a purpose in life. As a child many of us had ambitions of changing the World or making a difference in some way. I was no different. I grew up with a great sense of social justice. At the age of 6 or 7 I aksed my town mayor why, if he was so concerned about poverty, didn’t he just sell his expensive gold Mayors’ civic regalia ( a gold chain that UK mayors wear) and give the money to the poor. Everything seemed so simple at that age, with clear solutions to obvious problems.
Yet here I am in 2023 looking around me at the largest income divide since the 1930’s, inequality, corruption and a seemingly unfair World dominated by an elite ruling class that seems to sway everything in their favour including the laws of the land. I find myself wondering what on earth can I do to actually make a difference to these huge inequalities.
I’m often sat in my house in the Philippines watching the news from the UK (and to a lesser degree the US and Europe) and cannot quite believe the seeming apathy with which the masses are allowing our civil rights and liberties to be eroded by those in power. First we had the War on Terror, a seemingly noble cause. However the Governments of the West seemed to have taken this as an opportunity to consolidate power with the enactment of many invasive and overreaching laws that diminished people’s rights. Our right to protest in the UK is now being attacked at every opportunity. The ability to peacefully protest is absolutely fundamental to everything that we now consider to be ‘our rights’ as citizens. Without this right to protest we wouldn’t have the vote, minimum wage, workers rights or many other things that we currently take for granted.
The income gap between the rich and poor is now huge, much larger than it has ever been in my lifetime. The average cost of a home in many western countries makes it impossible for the average working person to own a place to live without incurring huge amounts of debt. Huge amounts of quantitative easing (printing money) benefits the rich for many reasons, not least because it acts as a huge inflationary boost which in turn increases the value of the stock market as well as their other assets such as housing and commercial property while the working classes are subjected to below inflation level pay rises (if any at all), yet still have to pay out for the increased cost of living. Should it all go a bit pear shaped then the Government will bail out the banks and the people will pick up the tab in years to come via increased taxes, exactly as happened during the global financial crisi. If you were one of the elite you would be laughing all the way to the bank (quite literally) at this no risk way of making a fotune.
Did you know that the average income of the top 0.1% of American earners increased by 345% between 1979 -2019 yet in that same time period the average salary of the bottom 90% of earners only increased by 26%.
The rich and powerful consistantly look to tilt everything in their favour, whether it be through shady business deals such as those regarding the purchase of PPE equipent in the UK, implemeting laws that take away our rights or just downright spying on us with no justification. The UK Government wastes billions of Pounds overpaying for defence and health contracts, purchasing their mates useless PPE equipment and through general incompetence. Yet, as we speak they are removing our right to protest, increasing the tax burden on the average working man at an alarming rate while removing us from the EU, mainly because those in power did not want their offshore, tax reducing accounts to be subjected to new EU laws that were due to come into force.
All this serves to highlight my generally jaded view of those in power around the World and my search for what I can do to make a difference. At 41, I am blessed with a lovely 6 year old daughter who is my best friend and quite honestly, sole purpose for getting up in the morning. I don’t want her to inherit a World that is ever more polarised, selfish, self serving (and quite honestly with the coming of social media), vacuous and vain. I spend my time trying to teach her morals, empathy and interest in the World around her but I must confess, sometimes it feels like a losing battle.
So what has all this got to do with photography? Photography has become so commonplace with the near total uptake of smartphones, as well as the constant posting of absolutely uninteresting and uninspiring photos on social media that I have found it very difficult to motivate myself to even go out and take photos anymore. It feels as though I am trying to fight the current of selfies and self promotion. In this World of 2 second attention spans how do you even create anything meaningful anymore? Everything has been shot to death, unless you’re a half naked, beautiful woman or you’re pretending to have an unobtainable ‘dream lifestyle’ then no one gives a shit about your photos. When did we all become so obsessed about what people think of us as well as so materialistic?
If I’m completely honest, I look around and it depresses me. I have to fight every day to keep my sanity as I find myself unable to comprehend a lot of people and their behaviour these days. Maybe every generation feels this as they age and are replaced with a younger generation who they fail to understand.
I no longer try and compete in that World. For me the answer is to come off social media, don’t give a toss about how many likes an image gets, don’t ask why this photo got liked and that one didn’t. Nothing makes sense in that World. Good photography is not about likes, popularity or recognition. The purpose of photography is to tell a story, to highlight it in a way that captures the imagination, causes one to stop and consider for a moment or it enables a change to happen in some small way. It should evoke a respone or emotion in the viewer and possibly make them reconsider what they thought they already knew.
Although photography could be considered an art form I don’t believe it is enough just to create a beautiful photo unless it has some other purpose. Now maybe that purpose is simply that the creator enjoys the process and I have no issue with that. We all need our therapy. For me, photography is just the medium to tell stories and the stories I intend to tell going forward will not be about pretty places or my ‘fantastic Instagram worthy life’ but of people and their struggles as well as those of our planets animals and environments.
The poverty and inequality that I see everyday in the Philippines is like an amplified version of the same inequalities found in the West. The divergence here is that it often means the difference between getting an education or not, eating or not, being subjected to abuse or not, getting justice or not and at the extreme, life and death. At the same time I see humanity’s almost total disregard or care for the environment and other animals that inhabit our planet. Resources are used and abused, things no longer of use are tossed aside with total disregard for the impact it is having on our planet. There are many deep rooted causes for these attitudes but at the crux of it, it is very difficult for someone to consider the well being of the planet or its creatures when they are worried whether they have anything to eat for dinner and may not even be aware of the impact of their actions because they have not received education on this topic.
In the future I plan to search out these stories and use my photography to observe and highlight them in my own small way. Whether that makes a difference is yet to be seen, but if it changes the outcome even just for one child here I’ll have made a difference and that’s all I can ask.
I will still be doing camera and lens reviews but only if and when I have something of note to say having used it extensively in the field.
In this post I am putting the Sony A7III vs A7IV to see how the two compare. Is the Sony A7IV worth upgrading to from the Sony A7III?
I originally owned a Sony A7III back when it was released in 2018. I was pretty impressed with it as you can see in my review at the time. The Sony A7IV intrigued me as I wanted to see how they could improve upon what is still one of the best hybrid cameras, even in 2022.
In this article I am going to cover everything that you need to know when considering the Sony A7III vs A7IV including image quality, video quality, ergonomics, menus and all the upgraded features. If you would rather watch then my video comparison of the Sony A7III vs A7IV Can be found here . The video shows screen recordings of the AF in action, the IBIS and video quality as well as everything else.
Sony A7III vs A7IV – Ergonomics
The first thing that you notice when you put the Sony A7IV next to the A7III is that the new camera has gained a little size over its predecessor. In terms of weight they are within a few grams of each other but the size difference, particularly the depth of the camera is more noticeable than the figures would have you believe. The mark III feels quite small and dinky in comparison to the latest mark IV version. The A7IV is deeper due to Sony adding a fully articulating screen (more on that later) and improving the heat management of the camera.
The grip has also grown and now offers more depth and provides more purchase on the camera, particularly when operating it one handed. Those with larger hands will definitely appreciate the added space and comfort. The A7 IV now weighs in at a measured 658g with the battery which is only 8g more than the mark III.
One of the most obvious changes to the A7IV is the switch to a fully articulated rear LCD screen. The previous model had a tilting mechanism often favoured by purely stills photographers but the new, articulated screen works much better for hybrid shooters like myself.
Not only is the new screen fully articulating it has also increased the resolution from 0.92 million dots to 1.04 million dots. More importantly the screen now has a 3:2 aspect ratio which matches the cameras sensor resulting in less wasted space on the screen.
The Sony A7IV’s screen now uses the touch screen functions to much greater effect, allowing you to use it to navigate the menus as well as the usual AF funtionality. The A7 III touchscreen was mainly limited to selecting AF points. The new one feels much more modern and in keeping with what we have become used to with modern gadgets like phones and tablets.
The EVF on the Sony A7IV has also been upgraded to 3.69m dots from 2.36m dots on the A7III. The improvement is welcome and a noticeable one but it is not class leading compared to some of the competition. The refresh rate can also be boosted to 120hz, double that of the older model. Everything else remains the same on the viewfinder.
One of the ergonomic changes that I find most satisfying is the increased size of the buttons on the mk IV. The AF-On button is now substantially larger and the AF joystick has also been enalarged and also flattened slightly which definitely makes it easier to move your AF point as desired.
The record button has been moved to the top of the camera instead of to the right of the viewfinder. In all honesty I don’t mind either location but given the choice I prefer the new placement as it is more in keeping with the other cameras that I use such as the Canon R5 and Nikon Z series bodies. I would prefer the Menu button to be on the right hand side like Nikon and Panasonic cameras so that it can be selected one handed.
There is now a dial below the PASM dial which allows you to switch between photo, video and S&Q modes. The dial is lockable as is the unmarked exposure compensation dial (it can be set to whatever you want now). There are also 3 custom setting slots on the PASM dial as opposed to 2 on the A7III.
The Sony A7 IV now has dual UHS-II card slots with slot 1 also accepting CF Express type A cards. You will need either V90 rated SD or CF Express A cards to record in the higher video resolutions/bitrates now available on the A7 IV. The A7 IV wont allow me to even try using a Sandisk Extreme Pro 170mb/s card for these higher quality video settings. I ordered a couple of these cards to enable recording using the higher quality video modes and they work well.
There is also a new locking mechanism on the memory card door. You now have to slide the lock (similar to the A7III) and at the same time slide the memory card door towards you. It is kind of awkward to be honest and one of the things that I prefer on the Sony A7III. Also the strap lugs on my A7IV are quite thick and can get in the way of the memory card door when opening. It’s not a big deal but something that I have noticed.
Menus
The A7IV uses the latest Sony menu system and my goodness what a difference it makes. The old Sony menus were a confused mess fo the most part. I often still find myself searching through them to find certain options and settings.
The new menu system is now much better laid out and for the most part it is logical and much quicker to find what you need. I particularly appreciate that it gives you a preview of the items contained within the selected menu option so that you don’t waste time diving into a menu only to find that the setting you needed is not there. I’d go as far as to say it is now one of the best menu systems available.
One thing that has caught me out and something that I find annoying is that when you set the camera up to use a picture profile in video mode, the camera carries this across when you switch back to photo mode. So I shot a bunch of images this morning with the log profile set for photos. Why Sony thought this was a good idea I do not know. Luckily I shoot in RAW + Jpeg so had the RAW files to fall back on.
Sony A7III vs A7IV – Image quality
The main headline grabbing upgrade for the A7IV is probably the increase in resolution from 24mp to 33mp. In all honesty, if this were the only reason that you are considering an upgrade from the Sony A7 III then I would save your money.
The increased resolution is nice to have as it enables a little more cropping room but the difference is not enough to justify the expense of an upgrade. You’re going from images measuring 6000×4000 pixels to 7008x 4672.
Yes, there is a little more detail in the 33mp images but it’s only just about enough to go up one print size. It does make the A7IV a more interesting proposition for landscape photographers who also have a hybrid workflow, perhaps aspiring youtubers who focus on landscape photography may give the A7IV more consideration but for most people resolution alone, while nice to have, likley isn’t the main reason to upgrade.
From my testing dynamic range remains essentially the same so at least that resolution bump has not come at the cost of dynamic range.
Here is an A7IV raw file with no adjustments. The blacks and highlights have clippedAnd here is the same file with the exposure increased by 1 stop along with a 100 push on both the blacks and shadows as well as -100 pull on the highlights. It looks hideous but gives an idea of just how flexible the RAW files are.
In terms of high ISO noise performance, you can see from my test shots below that the A7III and A7IV perform very similarly.
A7III Raw ISO 3200, Converted in Lightroom, no adjustmentsA7IV Raw ISO 3200 converted in Lightroom, no adjustmentsA7III Raw ISO 6400, converted in Lightroom, No adjustmentsA7IV Raw ISO 6400, converted in Lightroom, no adjustmentsSony A7III compared to A7IV 100% crop, ISO 6400
The A7III does slightly better once above ISO 6400 but once you down size the A7IV file to match the A7III dimensions it is actually a tiny amount better.
A7IV Tiff resized to A7III dimensions, converted in Lightroom, no adjustmentsA7IV downsized to A7III dimensions, ISO 6400, 100% view
One thing that I have noticed is that the auto white balance in the A7IV does a better job than the A7III. I often had to apply fairly significant corrections to the A7 III images as they sometimes gave a magenta or yellow tint depending on the lighting conditions. I have not found this to be an issue with the mark IV. Outdoors the colours are very similar as seen below.
A7III (left) vs A7IV
Skintones have also been improved on the A7IV vs A7III, particularly in mixed lighting conditions. This quick portrait was shot in window light with auto white balance and auto ISO. The AF nailed shot after shot. It really is impressive and the more I use it the more I appreciate just how easy the A7IV makes everything.
A7IV, Sony 85mm 1.4GM @ 1.4, 1/250, ISO1250 – RAW file, no editing done
The A7 IV now also adds the ability to shoot lossless compressed RAW files which helps to save some card and hard drive space without compromising image quality.
You can also shoot in 10bit HEIF format instead of Jpeg. In theory this should give more colour information than the 8bit Jpeg files but in use I haven’t noticed any difference. You also have to consider that HEIF is a relatively new format so before shooting chekc that they are compatible with your device/PC.
A7 IV vs A7 III – IBIS
The IBIS in the A7 IV is said to give 5.5 stops of image stabilisation compared with the 5 stops quoted for the A7 III.
I wanted to test out whether there was any real world difference so I shot my usual tests handheld at 24 mm on the Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8.
I found that results were so similar as to not warranty any further testing.
It is impossible to explain the difference in IBIS performance for video without showing the footage so please see my video here
This is where the A7IV shines against the A7III – Auto Focus
The AF in the Sony A7 III was always pretty good, especially as Sony updated the firmware to add better Eye AF as well as animal detection. However this has been improved again, with the A7 IV taking advantage of the BionZ XR which Sony claims is 8x faster than the BionZ X found in the mark III.
The A7 IV has 759 phase detect AF points giving 94% coverage vs 693 with 93% coverage on the A7 III. The increase doesn’t sound like much but more importantly it puts it in line with the A1 and A7SIII which I suspect will allow it to benefit from any AF improvements added to those bodies.
The phase detect points now work down to f/22 (vs f11 on the A7III) and the AF will work in -4 EV vs the A7III’s -3 EV.
When I first noticed that you can now change the AF point selection colour from white to red I gave a little prayer to the camera gods as this was something that I often had issue with in previous generation Sony cameras. When using the A7III and the A7R2 I owned before that, it could sometimes be incredibly difficult to know which focus point was being activated if the colour matched the background. It’s funny how small things can sometimes turn out to be instrumental in giving you a feel for whether you will like to use a camera or not.
The A7 IV has ported over the same AF algorithms found in the top of the line Sony A1 which adds real time eye AF and subject tracking. The A7 IV also adds human/animal AF that works in both photo and video mode. There is also vehicle tracking for photography as well as the ability to select bird eye AF.
Having tested this out on some not too challenging geese and pigeons I can say it does a great job.
Bird Eye Af works flawlessly for subjects such as this goose.
Again, it is best to watch the video for demonstrations of just how good the AF in the Sony A7IV is.
In use I have found it to be as good as anything available (including my Canon R5). In fact I would even put it a notch above the R5. It locks on really quickly and is accurate. To see this in action subscribe to my Youtube channel and hit the notifications bell as the full video will be released soon which includes footage of the AF captured on an Atomos Ninja V. You can now see the video here
With Eye AF turned on it is the quickest system that I have used to pick up the subjects eyes and it can do it even when the subject is quite small in the frame. Mind you, the Sony A7III is no slouch in this area either.
I could see a discernible difference when shooting the Sony A7IV vs A7III. It is simply much quicker to react, pick up the subject and place that green box over the eye.
When the subject either turned away from the camera or left and then returned to frame it was significantly quicker to regain focus on the eye than the A7III. The MK III did not always pick up the subject’s eyes again quickly and on some ocassions even failed to do so at all. I believe this is due to the older algorithm scanning the entire scene to re-aqquire the subjects eyes whereas the Sony A7 IV has been programmed using machine learning to prioritise looking for a subjects eyes in the same area as it last detected them. Whatever the technicalities it is a marked improvement.
Video
The Sony A7III was one of the first true hybrid cameras, bringing together great stills and at the time, excellent video specs. However times have moved on and the lack of 10 bit internal video as well as 4k is starting to show against the competition.
The A7IV has adressed this and now offers upto 4k30 with no crop whereas the A7III tops out at 4k25 without a crop. Once you go to 4k30 there is a 1.2x crop on the A7III. The recording limit of 30 minutes found on the A7III has now been removed too.
As well as the usual S-log options the A7IV now includes S-Cinetone.
Importantly the A7IV now offers 4k60 full pixel readout (no binning) but this does crop to APS-C or 1.5x.
Where the A7IV has definitely taken things up by several notches vs the A7III is with the codecs and colour depth available. This is great news for those wishing to colour grade their footage in post.
The A7III only offers 8bit 4:2:0 internal shooting options whereas the A7IV now shoots 10 bit 4:2:2 internally with the option to use the H.265 codec or All Intra H.264 at a bit rate of 300mbps for 30p or 600mbps for 60p footage. Lower data rates are also available for those who don’t need the added grading headroom or simply want to save on disk space.
Below are the various 4k codecs and bit rates available.
4k H.265 24p bit rates4k H.265 60p bit rates4k H.264 24p Bit rates4k H.264 30p bit rates4k H.264 60p bit rates
4K All intra has fixed settings as follows :
24p – 4:2:2 10 bit 240mbps
30P – 4:2:2 10 bit 300mbps
60p – 4:2:2 10 bit 600mbps
The A7IV does away with the Micro HDMI port and replaces it with a full sized HDMI which is so much more sturdy.
It also adds what Sony call Active stabilisation. This is basically a digital stabilisation using information from the gyro on the IBIS. The field of view crops in a little to allow this. This is something that I tested for my video review and will show there.
The A7IV now lets you adjust (in 7 steps) how quickly focus transitions are performed as well as 5 steps of control for how quickly the AF will switch from one subject to another.
An interesting concept and one that I have seen carried out extremely well by DJI is the focus mapping option. This shows you which areas of your image are in and out of focus by colouring the areas. I’m still not convinced on its usefulness so will report back when I have had time to use it a little more.
Sony A7III vs A7IV – Conclusion
When I saw the specs for the Sony A7IV I wasn’t blown away. There was no one aspect that really stood out to me as groundbreaking or a must have. A little more resolution, an articulating screen, a new menu (again), a few extra video modes and promised AF improvements didn’t really seem like that much considering how groundbreaking the A7III was back in 2018 and how long it has been since then.
I have had and owned at least one of each generation of Sony’s A7 series bodies since the A7R. I have always appreciated their technical abilities, groundbreaking specs and ability to push the boundaries for autofocus. However, I have never gelled with one the way I have with say, the Fuji X-Pro 1 & 3 or the Nikon Z7II or Canon R5. The difference, I have always felt is that those feel like cameras made by a camera company that understands photographers. They get the little things right in terms of button placement, menus, ergonomics, design and handling. These things really do make a massive difference when it comes time to pick up a camera and shoot.
The Sony A7IV is the first Sony camera that I have picked up and felt like it is finally designed by a company that understands what we as photographers/videographers want. There are no headline grabbing features that blow your mind the way that the Canon R5, Sony A1 or Nikon Z9 did at release but the whole is definitely more than the sum of its parts when it comes to the A7IV.
After having shot a lot with both of these cameras side by side, if it were my money and I had to decide between the Sony A7III vs A7IV , I would buy the A7IV without doubt. It feels like a camera, makes everything easy and gets out of your way and lets you shoot. Not to mention that I would no longer consider a camera without 4k60 video.
I hope that you found some value in this article and it helps with your decision. Please don’t forget to help out in anyway you can by subscribing to this blog, my yotube channel or buying through my links. Any help is much appreciated and allows me to spend more time creating content like this.
In this post I’m going to walk you through the best settings for your Sony A7 IV. I’ll start by helping you to setup the camera out of the box and then move on to the best settings for photography on the Sony A7 IV. If you are looking for the best video settings for the Sony A7 IV then these will be available soon in a separate article. The Sony A7 IV allows you to setup completely seperate custom settings and options for photography and video.
I’ve been lucky enough to get my hands on the Sony A7 IV pretty quickly even though you can’t find one in stock at a lot of stores. If you would prefer to watch then checkout my video instead.
Being a previous user of the Sony A7 III (Sony A7III video review) I’m very familiar with the Sony system but there are a few worthwhile changes on the Sony A7 IV that make setting it up a little different.
Let’s dive straight into setting up your brand new Sony A7 IV out of the box.
Setting up the Sony A7 IV – out of the box
When you turn your camera on for the first time you need to set your menu language. I’ll select English here.
Then set your time zone. I’ll be selecting Lisbon/London. You can also turn daylight saving on/off. As we are in January this is set to off in the UK at the moment.
Now select the way you want your date to be formatted. As I’m British I’ll go with D-M-Y or day, month then year. My American friends can choose M-D-Y.
Set the date and time accordingly (note the format is using the 24 hour clock).
Next you can choose to register your phone with the smartphone app. I’ll do this later via the smartphone regist option in the menu system.
That’s the basics setup.
Sony A7 IV setup – menu options for photography
Hit the menu button to the left of the viewfinder and you will notice that the Sony A7 IV is using the latest Sony menu system.
To select any option you can either press the direction on the rear dial or you can rotate it to scroll up and down through the options. Right is enter and left is to go back a step.
Here are the settings that I use for photography.
Camera Icon menu option 2/52
JPEG/HEIF switch – Jpeg
Image quality settings
File format : Raw + Jpeg
Raw File Type : Lossless Compressed (gives the best quality raw files but saves space over uncompressed)
Jpeg Quality : Extra Fine (again gives the best Jpeg quality)
Jpeg size: 33m (if you want smaller Jpegs for social media or as backup then select medium 14mp or small 8.2mp)
Aspect ratio: I leave it to the native 3:2 aspect ratio and do any cropping on the image in post. You can select between this, 4:3 slightly shorter on the long edge, 16:9 standard film aspect ration and 1:1 for square format
I often use Sandisk cards with my cameras as I have found them to be very tough and reliable. If you are looking for a card for your Sony A7 IV then I always buy from Amazon as they have a great returns policy and usually the best pricing. Cards linked below:
Skip to
Long exposure noise reduction – I leave this on as it captures a black frame at the same shutter speed after a long exposure in order to map hot pixels and noise and remove them. You can do this in post if you prefer. Having this option on will result in the camera taking a second exposure for the same length of time as your first, so can involve a lot of waiting around if your exposure is 1 minute or more.
Scroll down and you will move to Option 3/52
High ISO NR : Low. I like to do most of my noise reduction in post so I keep this set to low. This will only affect your Jpeg files.
Colour Space : Adobe RGB if you plan to edit, sRGB if you are going to post images directly online. Adobe RGB gives more colours but sRGB is the standard used online.
Format– Always format your memory cards before use to minimise the chance of corrupt files and data loss.
Rec Media Settings: This is where you can select how the camera records to your memory cards. You can choose between slot 1 for photos and slot 2 for video, Simultaneous recording which saves the same files to both cards at the same time ie backup, or auto switch which will automaticall record to the other card when one becomes full. I choose the first option to keep things simple when transferring my media to the computer.
Camera Icon Menu (Option 5/52)
File/Folder settings:
File Number: Set to series
Set file name : I set this to ‘A74’ so that I know which camera has recorded the images when I load them onto my computer. You can choose any name you prefer.
Copyright Info:
Write Copyright info: On
Set Photographer: Add your name
Set Copyright: Add your name or company name.
I shoot in Manual mode but if you shoot in aperture or shutter priority with auto ISO then you will need to set your ISO values using option 13/52 and 14/52.
Sony A7 IV best settings for landscapes and non moving subjects
Choosing your autofocus settings will depend on your subject.
Option 20/52: Single Shot AF
Priority Set in AF-S : AF
Focus Area: Spot Small
Face/Eye Prior in AF : Off
For manually focusing set 20/52 to manual focus and turn peaking on as below.
26/52
Peaking display: On
Peaking level: High
Peaking colour: Red
Sony A7 IV best settings for portraits
Focus mode: Continuous AF: On
Priority set in AF-C: Balanced
AF Tracking sensititvity: 4
Focus area: Wide
Face/Eye priority in AF : On
The Sony A7 IV does an amazing job picking up a subjects eye, locking on and sticking with it even when they turn away from the camera for a second. It quickly locks back on to the same subject so I almost always use eye AF when shooting portraits.
Finally if you don’t want to hear the autofocus beep everytime the camera attains focus then head over to option 49/52 and turn audio signals off.
I hope you found this useful and hopefully it saved you a bit of time scrolling through the vast menu system of the Sony A7 IV. If you got some value from this post then please share it with your friends or anyone that you think would also find it helpful.
In a future article I shall be going through the best settings for video on the Sony A7 IV as well as showing how I set up the custom modes and function buttons for photography and video.
