Why I Chose the Fujifilm X100Vi and XT5 for My Documentary Photography Project

I chose the Fuji XT5 and X100Vi for documentary photography after considering a number of cameras and systems. To see why, read on below:

If you’d rather watch than read then see my video.

When it comes to documentary photography, especially for a personal project like mine, choosing the right camera is crucial. My current project is deeply personal—it’s about honoring my late father by photographing the places in Devon and Cornwall that were important to him. These locations, from rugged coastlines to misty moorlands, represent the life he lived, and I want to capture them with the same care and attention to detail that they deserve.

For this project, I’m using two exceptional cameras: the Fujifilm X100Vi and the Fujifilm XT5 paired with a 35mm f2 lens. These cameras were not chosen randomly; they each bring unique qualities that make them ideal tools for documentary work. In this post, I’ll explain why these Fujifilm cameras are my go-to for such a meaningful documentary project, and why any documentary photographer should consider them.

The Importance of Choosing the Right Camera for Documentary Photography

Documentary photography is all about storytelling. It’s about capturing real moments, often in challenging conditions, without the luxury of setting up the perfect shot. As a photographer, you need a camera that not only delivers exceptional image quality but also allows you to focus on the story unfolding in front of you, rather than getting bogged down by technical settings.

For this project, I needed a camera setup that could do just that. I wanted a combination that would allow me to capture high-quality images for large prints, offer a look that complements the documentary style, and be portable enough for the long treks across Dartmoor and the coastline where I’ll be shooting.

Why I Chose the Fujifilm X100Vi for This Project

The Fujifilm X100Vi is one of the most talked-about cameras in the photography world, and for good reason. For my father’s documentary project, it’s the perfect companion for several key reasons:

1. Fixed 35mm Focal Length

The X100Vi features a fixed 23mm f2 lens, equivalent to 35mm on a full-frame camera. This focal length is ideal for documentary photography—it’s wide enough to capture landscapes and environmental shots, yet intimate enough to photograph people and details. One of the best aspects of using a fixed focal length is that it removes the indecision that often comes with choosing lenses. For this project, I don’t want to be constantly switching lenses or wondering which one to take. I grab the X100Vi, and I’m ready to shoot, trusting the focal length to adapt to any situation.

2. Classic Chrome Film Simulation

Fujifilm is renowned for its film simulations, and for this project, I’m primarily using Classic Chrome. This film simulation provides a muted, cinematic look that’s perfect for documentary work. It gives my photos a timeless feel, which is exactly what I want when capturing places that hold such historical and emotional significance. The look of Classic Chrome aligns beautifully with the tone I’m trying to achieve—nothing overly stylized, but rather authentic and true to the environment.

3. Compact and Lightweight Design

Carrying gear across Dartmoor or along the rugged Cornish coastline requires something lightweight. The X100Vi is compact and easy to carry, which means I can focus more on the locations and the experience rather than lugging around heavy equipment. Its discreet size also allows me to shoot in more intimate or busy environments without drawing too much attention, which is crucial for capturing authentic, unposed moments.

4. Timeless Design and Emotional Connection

The X100Vi isn’t just a tool; it’s a camera that puts me in the right emotional space to work on such a personal project. Its rangefinder-style design feels timeless, like the places I’m documenting. The simplicity of its controls keeps the technical aspects out of the way, allowing me to focus on the emotional connection I have with the locations. The camera becomes an extension of my vision rather than a distraction.

Why I Pair the Fujifilm XT5 with a 35mm f2 Lens

While the X100Vi is fantastic for most of my needs, there are times when I want a little more flexibility, and that’s where the Fujifilm XT5 comes in. Paired with the 35mm f2 lens, it offers a perfect balance between versatility and simplicity for documentary work.

1. 40MP Sensor for High-Quality Prints

The XT5 boasts Fujifilm’s latest 40MP sensor, which is a huge advantage for a project like this. I plan to print many of these images for a zine and for large-format prints that will be displayed in my home and studio. The detail that the XT5 provides is perfect for creating high-quality prints, even at large sizes, without sacrificing sharpness or clarity.

2. Flexibility with the 35mm f2 Lens

Although the X100Vi’s fixed 35mm focal length is fantastic, the XT5 gives me the option to change lenses if needed. For this project, I’ve chosen to stick with the 35mm f2, which gives me a consistent field of view and allows for easy transitions between the two cameras. The 35mm focal length is one of the most versatile, making it ideal for capturing landscapes, architecture, and even more intimate portraits.

3. Classic Chrome for a Consistent Look

Just like with the X100Vi, I’m using Classic Chrome on the XT5 to maintain a consistent look throughout the project. This uniformity in color and tone is crucial when shooting across different locations and conditions. Whether I’m photographing the misty hills of Dartmoor or the sunlit shores of Cornwall, Classic Chrome ensures that my images remain cohesive.

4. Weather Sealing for Rugged Conditions

Much of this project will be shot in unpredictable weather, particularly on Dartmoor and the Cornish coastline. The XT5 is weather-sealed, making it perfect for shooting in rain, mist, or even strong coastal winds. I don’t want to worry about my gear when I’m out in the field, and the XT5 gives me the peace of mind that it can handle whatever conditions I encounter.

5. Controls That Get Out of the Way

One of the reasons I love Fujifilm cameras is that their controls are simple and intuitive. On the XT5, the dedicated dials for ISO, shutter speed, and aperture allow me to adjust settings quickly without diving into menus. For documentary photography, where moments can pass in an instant, these physical dials are invaluable. They allow me to stay focused on the scene in front of me, rather than on my camera.

The Perfect Combination for Documentary Photography

For this project, the combination of the Fujifilm X100Vi and XT5 with the 35mm f2 lens provides the perfect balance between simplicity, image quality, and versatility. Whether I’m shooting in challenging weather on Dartmoor or capturing the intimate details of a coastal scene, these cameras deliver everything I need.

Small and lightweight enough for long hikes and discrete shooting, weather-sealed for unpredictable conditions, and equipped with the Classic Chrome film simulation for a consistent, documentary-style look, these cameras are helping me tell a story that’s incredibly personal.

When it comes to documentary photography, I don’t want to be distracted by gear or technicalities. I want a camera setup that works seamlessly with my vision, and the Fujifilm X100Vi and XT5 do exactly that. Their timeless design and thoughtful controls put me in the right frame of mind to focus on what really matters—the story I’m trying to tell through my images.

Conclusion

If you’re a documentary photographer or simply working on a personal project that requires reliable, high-quality gear, I can’t recommend the Fujifilm X100Vi and XT5 enough. These cameras offer everything you need to create powerful images without getting in the way of your creative process. The 40MP sensor, Classic Chrome film simulation, compact size, and weather sealing make them ideal for any photographer looking to capture meaningful stories in unpredictable environments.

To follow along with my documentary photography projects and see the latest videos be sure to watch my Youtube channel. You can also get more personal stories by heading on over the my personal website.

If you want to see how to setup your Fuji XT5 then check out my article here

By simplifying my gear choices, I’ve been able to focus entirely on what matters most: the story. These cameras don’t just help me capture images—they help me stay connected to the project and honour my father’s memory through photography.

How to overcome Gear Acquisition Syndrome in Photography

How I Cured Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS) and Focused on My Photography Goals

I’ve finally learnt how to overcome gear acquisition syndrome in photography and I’d like to share what helped me.

In today’s fast-paced world of photography, it’s easy to get caught up in the endless cycle of buying new gear. Whether it’s the latest camera body, a new lens, or other accessories, many photographers experience Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS) at some point. I know I did. Over the last 10 years of my non-professional photography journey, I owned far too many cameras, constantly upgrading and switching gear in search of the next best thing. However, I realized something important: buying more gear wasn’t making me a better photographer.

In this blog post, I’ll explain how I cured GAS, simplified my photography kit, and redirected my focus towards what really matters: creating meaningful photographic work and achieving my personal photography goals. This shift has not only improved my photography but has also allowed me to regain the joy of shooting, unburdened by the pressure of owning the latest and greatest gear.

If you are already over the GAS stage then head on over to my personal blog where this week I discuss the work of Ernst Haas

How to overcome gear acquisition syndrome in photography.

Firstly, What Is Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS)?

Before we dive into how I cured it, let’s talk about what Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS) actually is. GAS is the constant desire to purchase new photography equipment, even when it’s not necessary. You might convince yourself that a new camera body or a specific lens will take your photography to the next level, or you feel pressure to keep up with the latest gear trends, thinking it will improve your work. While upgrading your gear can be useful in some cases, it often becomes a distraction from what truly matters: the art and purpose behind your photography.

My Personal Struggle with GAS

In the past 10 years, I fell into the trap of constantly upgrading my equipment. I’ve owned countless cameras, ranging from entry-level DSLRs to advanced mirrorless systems. I’d read reviews, watch videos, and believe that each new piece of gear would somehow transform my photography. However, during the 5 years I spent as a professional photographer, I only had two cameras—and that was more than enough. Back then, I was entirely focused on the work, not the gear.

Lightroom Metadata showing just some of my cameras

As I transitioned into a non-professional photography role, I found myself paying more attention to the latest gear releases and less attention to what I was actually photographing. I became obsessed with having the latest technology, thinking it would make me a better photographer. But deep down, I knew it wasn’t the gear that mattered—it was my vision and technique.

Notice how few shots I’m actually taking with each camera

The Turning Point: Focusing on What Matters

After years of chasing gear, I started asking myself some serious questions about what I really wanted from photography. What is the purpose of my work? What kind of photography do I want to create? The answer was clear: I wanted to create story-driven, meaningful photography, focusing on social and environmental projects. Gear was simply a tool to achieve those goals, not the goal itself.

Photographers Like Ernst Haas used minimal gear

At that moment, I decided to simplify my gear collection and focus on only what I needed to produce the kind of photographic work I care about. By streamlining my kit, I stopped thinking about the latest tech and started thinking more about the techniques and projects that would help me achieve my goals.

Simplifying My Gear

One of the first steps I took to cure GAS was to significantly reduce the number of cameras I owned. I now focus on just a few key pieces of equipment that I need for the work I want to do. Instead of constantly switching between camera bodies and lenses, I’ve honed in on a setup that works for me: the Fuji X100Vi and Fuji XT5, along with a couple of small, versatile prime lenses. These cameras allow me to capture the images I need without the distraction of having too many choices.

Don McCullin, a great photographer used simple gear to capture his incredible stories

By limiting my gear, I’ve noticed that my creativity and focus have increased. I’m no longer wasting time researching the next camera upgrade or worrying about whether my gear is good enough. I’m able to concentrate on my photography projects, honing my skills, and telling the stories that matter to me.

Refocusing My Photography and YouTube Channel

This shift in mindset has not only impacted my photography but also the direction of my YouTube channel. When I first started making videos, a lot of the content was focused on gear reviews and comparisons. But as I’ve re-evaluated my goals, I’ve realized that I don’t want my channel to be about gear anymore. Instead, I want to focus on photography techniques, the projects I’m working on, and the inspiration behind my work.

My future content will highlight photography as an art form and how we can use it to tell meaningful stories, whether those are personal projects or broader social or environmental issues. Of course, I’ll still mention gear when it’s relevant to a project, but it will no longer be the focus of my channel. My goal is to connect with like-minded people who care more about the purpose behind photography than the equipment we use.

How You Can Overcome GAS

If you’re struggling with Gear Acquisition Syndrome, here are a few tips to help you break free and refocus on your photography goals:

Ask yourself why you need new gear: Do you really need that new camera, or are you just upgrading because it’s the latest trend? Think critically about whether new gear will truly improve your photography or if you’re just falling into the trap of consumerism.
Focus on your photographic goals: What kind of photography do you want to create? Whether it’s street photography, documentary work, or creative portraiture, think about the type of work you want to produce and what gear you actually need to achieve those goals.
Simplify your kit: By reducing the amount of gear you own, you’ll spend less time thinking about equipment and more time taking photos. Limiting your options can also boost creativity by forcing you to work within constraints.
Shift your mindset: Stop thinking of gear as the answer to better photography. Instead, focus on improving your skills, mastering the tools you already have, and working on meaningful projects that inspire you.

Conclusion: Gear Isn’t Everything

For a long time, I thought that having the best gear would make me a better photographer, but I’ve since learned that this isn’t the case. Photography is about storytelling, creativity, and technique—not the latest camera or lens. By curing my Gear Acquisition Syndrome and focusing on my goals, I’ve rediscovered the joy of photography and am more motivated than ever to work on projects that truly matter.

If you’ve been struggling with GAS or feel like gear is distracting you from your creative goals, I hope this post helps you refocus on what’s really important in your photography journey.

To dive deeper into how I cured my own GAS and how I’m moving forward with my photography, check out my latest video: How I cured GAS and saved myself thousands

Fuji XT5 vs X100VI for Street Photography: A Detailed Comparison

When it comes to street photography, trying to decide between the Fuji XT5 vs X100Vi can be tough. Fujifilm has always been a top choice for photographers who want a balance of exceptional image quality and classic design. Two of the most popular options right now are the Fuji XT5 and the highly sought-after X100VI. Both of these cameras bring Fujifilm’s signature features and performance to the table, but in very different ways.

With the X100VI being notoriously hard to find in stock, many photographers are considering the XT5, paired with one of Fuji’s compact prime lenses like the 23mm f/2 or the 35mm f/2, as a potential alternative. While both cameras share the same 40MP X-Trans 5 sensor and the latest film simulations, they offer unique handling experiences. So, how do they compare, and which one might be the better fit for you?

In this post, I’ll dive into the key differences between the Fuji XT5 and X100VI for street photography. If you want to know which one I recommend, make sure to watch my YouTube video at the end for my full review and detailed opinion.

Fuji XT5 vs X100Vi – Image Quality: A Level Playing Field

First and foremost, let’s talk about image quality. Both the XT5 and X100VI are equipped with Fujifilm’s latest 40MP APS-C X-Trans 5 sensor, so you can expect the same level of image quality from both cameras. Whether you’re shooting in bright sunlight or low light, both cameras deliver sharp, detailed images with excellent color rendering and dynamic range.

One of the reasons I love Fujifilm is the variety of film simulations available, and both the XT5 and X100VI come with the full set, including the newer Reala Ace simulation. These film simulations are particularly useful in street photography, where you can quickly switch between different color tones or black and white without needing to spend time in post-processing.

In terms of autofocus performance, I’ve found both cameras to be very similar. They offer fast and accurate autofocus, which is essential for street photography when you need to capture moments quickly. The XT5, when paired with Fuji’s f/2 prime lenses, feels a little quicker because the lenses are virtually silent, whereas the X100VI’s fixed lens does produce a bit of noise due to its focus motors.

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Design and Handling: Compact vs. Versatile

Now, let’s get into where these cameras really differ – design and handling.

Fujifilm X100VI: Compact and Discreet

Notice how flush the LCD screen is on the X100Vi

The X100VI is known for its compact size and portability, making it an excellent choice for photographers who want to be discreet while shooting on the street. It features a fixed 23mm f/2 lens (35mm full-frame equivalent), which is a fantastic focal length for street photography, offering a good balance between wide-angle and standard field of view. I’ve shot everything from portraits to travel photos with this focal length, and it works well for most situations.

The hybrid viewfinder on the X100VI is one of its standout features. It gives you the option of an optical viewfinder with an electronic overlay, or a fully electronic viewfinder. The optical viewfinder can be particularly useful in street photography because it lets you see subjects entering the frame before they’re captured, helping you time your shots more effectively. It also offers focus aids like magnified view and focus peaking, which can help when you’re shooting manually.

However, the grip on the X100VI is small. While it contributes to the camera’s compact size, I’ve found it a bit uncomfortable for longer shooting sessions, especially when shooting one-handed. To improve handling, I’ve added a SmallRig thumb rest and a grip extender, which makes it much more comfortable to use over extended periods.

Fujifilm XT5: Versatility with Interchangeable Lenses

On the other hand, the Fuji XT5 offers a more traditional DSLR-like design, with a larger body and central viewfinder hump. While it’s not as compact as the X100VI, it’s still relatively small and portable, especially when paired with one of Fuji’s compact prime lenses, such as the 23mm f/2 or 35mm f/2. This gives the XT5 an edge in terms of versatility, as you can switch lenses to suit different shooting situations.

The grip on the XT5 is larger, providing a more comfortable hold for longer shoots. I prefer to add a SmallRig grip when I know I’ll be shooting for an extended period, but even without it, the XT5 offers enough purchase to hold the camera securely. The 3-way tilting screen on the XT5 is also a nice touch, allowing for more flexible shooting angles, especially in portrait orientation. In contrast, the X100VI’s screen only tilts in two directions, but it’s sleeker and flush to the body, giving the camera a very streamlined appearance.

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Controls and Customization: Traditional Fujifilm Dials

Both the XT5 and X100VI feature external control dials for shutter speed, ISO, and (when paired with a lens that has an aperture ring) aperture, which makes them both intuitive to use. This is one of the things I love most about Fujifilm cameras – the ability to quickly change settings without diving into menus.

X100VI: Compact Control Setup

The X100VI has a more streamlined control layout, with fewer physical buttons compared to the XT5. The ISO dial is integrated into the shutter speed dial, which can be adjusted with just one hand while shooting. I find this particularly useful in fast-paced environments like street photography, where every second counts. However, the X100VI relies more heavily on its touchscreen for navigating certain settings.

XT5: Extra Customization

The XT5 offers a bit more customization with the inclusion of a D-pad on the back, allowing for more function buttons and quicker access to frequently used settings. This can be a real advantage if you like to tweak your settings on the go. Additionally, the XT5 has dual SD card slots, which is useful if you’re shooting in RAW or want the peace of mind of having a backup card.

In-Use Experience: Portability vs. Flexibility

The X100vi’s LCD screen only articulates in two directions

The XT5’s 3 way articulating screen is more flexible

When it comes to real-world use, there are a few factors that might influence your decision.

Portability: X100VI

If you prioritize portability and discretion, the X100VI is hard to beat. Its leaf shutter is quieter than the XT5’s mechanical shutter, making it less noticeable in quiet environments. The fixed 23mm lens doesn’t protrude far from the camera body, giving the X100VI a very compact profile, and its built-in flash is great for adding a touch of fill light in backlit situations. The 4-stop ND filter is another handy feature that lets you shoot wide open in bright light without needing to attach any external accessories.

Flexibility: XT5

On the flip side, the XT5 offers much more flexibility thanks to its interchangeable lenses. While the 23mm f/2 lens on the XT5 gives a similar field of view to the X100VI, the ability to switch lenses gives you more creative options. Whether you’re looking to shoot wide-angle street scenes or zoom in for a tighter portrait, the XT5 can adapt to a wider range of scenarios.

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Battery Life and Storage

Both cameras offer USB-C charging, which is convenient when you’re out on a long day of shooting. The XT5 has a larger NP-W235 battery, which generally lasts longer than the X100VI’s NP-W126S battery. However, I find that both cameras last long enough for most street photography sessions but I always carry a spare battery in my bag.

The XT5’s dual SD card slots are a nice addition, especially if you shoot in RAW or need to back up your images on the go. The X100VI only has a single card slot, but for most street photography, this isn’t a dealbreaker.

The inclusion of the D-Pad on the XT5 means it’s more customisable

Fuji XT5 vs X100Vi – Which Camera is Best for Street Photography?

At the end of the day, both the Fuji XT5 and X100VI are excellent cameras for street photography, but they cater to slightly different needs. The X100VI offers simplicity and discretion, while the XT5 provides more versatility and customization.

If you’re still unsure which one is right for you, I’ve made a detailed video comparing these two cameras in action. Be sure to check it out on my YouTube channel, where I go into more depth about the strengths and weaknesses of each model and offer my personal recommendation based on real-world use.

if you would like to see how best to setup the Fuji XT5 for street photography then head on over to this article or this video

Fuji XT5 Street Photography Best Settings

Fuji XT5 Street Photography Best Settings: A Complete Guide

Are you ready to take your Fuji XT5 street photography to the next level? If you’ve been searching for the best settings to optimize your camera for dynamic, fast-paced environments, you’ve come to the right place. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the key settings I use on my Fujifilm XT5, including custom function buttons and film recipes that will give your photos a distinctive look.

But if you prefer video tutorials or want to see these settings in action, I’ve put together a detailed YouTube video where I go over my full setup for street photography, including tips and examples. You can watch the video here:

Now, let’s dive into the settings.

1. Image Quality Settings

Getting the right image quality is crucial for street photography, especially when you’re shooting fast and in varied light. Here are the settings I use to ensure I capture both JPEG and RAW files:

–Image Quality: Fine JPEG + RAW
–RAW Recording: Lossless Compressed
–JPEG/HEIF: JPEG
–Film Simulation: Classic Chrome (or your choice—check out my YouTube video for more film recipe options!)
– Grain Effect: Off
– Color Chrome Effect: Off
– Color Chrome FX Blue: Off
– Smooth Skin Effect: Off

If you want to see how these settings translate to real street photography scenarios, don’t forget to check out my YouTube video where I walk you through these settings in real-time on the street.

2. White Balance & Dynamic Range Settings

These settings will help you maintain accurate colors and prevent blown-out highlights or shadows in varying lighting conditions.

– White Balance: Daylight
– Dynamic Range: Auto
– D Range Priority: Off
– Tone Curve: Default (H: 0, S: 0)

Want to see how I adjust these settings on the go in fast-changing street scenes? Be sure to watch this YouTube video for live demonstrations!

3. Color & Sharpness

Neutral colors and sharpness are essential for clean, striking images. Here are the best settings to achieve that:

– Color: 0
– Sharpness: 0
– High ISO NR: -4
– Clarity:c0
– Color Space: Adobe RGB for printing, or sRGB for general use

4. Auto Focus Settings

Street photography often happens fast, and you need autofocus settings that can keep up. Here’s what I recommend:

– Focus Area: Zone
– AF Mode: Zone
– If Using Single Point AF: Set focus points to 425
– AF Illuminator: Off
– Face/Eye Detection: Off
– MF Assist: Peaking, Red High
– Interlock Spot AE & Focus Area: On

5. Drive & ISO Settings

Quick adjustments for burst shooting and ISO sensitivity are crucial in street photography. Here’s how I set them up:

– Drive Settings:

– CH (High Burst Speed): 10 FPS
– CL (Low Burst Speed): 5 FPS
– ISO Auto Setting 1:
– Default Sensitivity: 125
– Max Sensitivity: 12800
– Min Shutter Speed: 1/160
– ISO Auto Setting 2:
– Default Sensitivity: 125
– Max Sensitivity: 12800
– Min Shutter Speed: 1/100

6. Function Button Settings

Quick access to essential functions is important for efficient street shooting. Here’s my custom button setup:

– Fn1: Face Detect
– Fn2: AF Mode
– Fn3: Photometry
– Fn4: Film Simulations
– Fn5: White Balance
– AE-L: ISO Auto Setting

Film Simulations for Street Photography

One of the standout features of Fujifilm cameras is their ability to simulate classic film looks. Below are some of my favorite film simulations for street photography.

Kodak Tri-X 400
*Credit: Fuji X Weekly*

– Film Simulation: Acros
– Dynamic Range: DR200
– Grain Effect: Strong, Large
– Color Chrome Effect: Strong
– White Balance: Daylight, +9 Red, -9 Blue
– Highlight: 0
– Shadow: +3
– ISO: 1600 – 12800

This recipe gives you a timeless black-and-white look.

Kodak Ultramax 400

*Credit: Fuji X Weekly*

– Film Simulation: Classic Chrome
– Grain Effect: Strong, Large
– White Balance: Auto, +1 Red, -5 Blue
– Dynamic Range: DR Auto
– Highlight: +1
– Shadow: +1
– Color: +4

Daily Driver

This is my go-to recipe for everyday shooting:

– Film Simulation: Nostalgic Negative
– Grain Effect: Weak, Large
– Color Chrome Effect: Weak
– Dynamic Range: DR400
– Tone Curve: H -2, S +2
– Color: +3
– Sharpness: -4

It balances sharpness and color for consistent, high-quality results.

If you found these settings useful and want to see them in action, don’t miss my latest video, where I show you exactly how I set up my Fuji XT5 for street photography. Whether it’s customizing autofocus or choosing the right film simulation, I cover it all in real-time:

Watch the Video: Best Fujifilm XT5 Settings for Street Photography

Fuji XT5 street photography best settings: Final thoughts

The Fujifilm XT5 is an amazing camera for street photography, but having the right settings makes all the difference. I hope this guide helps you set up your camera for success.

Fuji XT5 street photography: Is It the Perfect Street camera

Fuji XT5 Street photography: Is this the perfect camera?

I have seen alot of Fuji XT5 street photography lately. As I dip my toes into the world of street photography, I find myself on the hunt to see why the XT5 is so often praised by street photographers. Recently, I’ve been exploring the Fujifilm XT5 for street photography, as it has garnered a lot of praise for its features and design. After shooting in the rainy streets of Coventry for my latest youtube video, I want to share my thoughts on how the XT5 might just be the perfect camera for someone like me who’s just starting out. If you want to see my rainy street photography experience, be sure to check out my YouTube video. For more photography tips and insights, visit my personal blog at David J. Fleet Photography Blog .

What Makes a Good Camera for Street Photography?

As a beginner (to street photography), I’ve learned that a camera for street photography should have several key characteristics:

Size and Portability

One of the first things I noticed about the Fuji XT5 is its size. It’s compact enough to carry around without feeling bulky, which is perfect for me as I wander through city streets. Being lightweight makes it easy to move quickly and blend into my surroundings, helping me capture genuine moments without drawing too much attention.

LCD Screen Design

The three-way tilt screen is another feature I love. As someone who is still getting comfortable with composing shots on the screen rather than viewfinder (for POV videos), this flexibility allows me to frame photos from different angles without attracting unwanted attention. Whether I’m shooting at waist level or getting low to the ground, this screen makes it easy to get the shot I envision.

User-Friendly Controls

The physical control dials on the XT5 offer an inspiring shooting experience. While they may feel slower than the typical PASM dials found on many cameras, I appreciate being able to check my settings visually without digging through menus. I’m often focused on capturing moments, so knowing that my settings are as I intended gives me peace of mind.

Image Quality

One of the most impressive aspects of the XT5 is its 40MP resolution. This high resolution allows me to crop images without losing quality, which is particularly useful when working with prime lenses on the street.

Discreet Design

I find the look of the XT5 appealing; it’s not as imposing as a large DSLR. This discretion is crucial for me, especially when I want to capture candid moments. A camera that looks less intimidating makes it easier to shoot natural scenes without disrupting the environment.

Custom Settings and Speed

The XT5 includes seven custom slots for saving various settings, which is incredibly helpful as I experiment with different styles and conditions. I appreciate the fact that the autofocus system is fast enough for my needs, especially when I’m out in the unpredictable nature of street photography.

Depth of Field

With its APS-C sensor, the XT5 provides extra depth of field for a given aperture compared with 35mm sensors. I find this a positive as I often want more depth of field in street shots.

Film Simulations

Fujifilm’s film simulations are very popular and for good reason. I love that I can tweak these settings to get the look I want, and often, I find myself just as happy with the JPEGs as I am with the RAW files. This feature allows me to have fun experimenting without too much editing later.

These colours are staright out of camera

My Experience Shooting in Coventry

During my recent adventure in Coventry, I was eager to test the XT5 in real-world conditions. The rain provided a unique atmosphere, and knowing the camera was weather-sealed gave me the confidence to shoot without worrying about the elements.

The compact size made it easy for me to navigate through the city, capturing spontaneous moments of daily life. The tilt screen proved invaluable as I crouched to shoot reflections in puddles, allowing me to get creative without drawing attention. The physical controls let me make quick adjustments, ensuring I was ready to capture fleeting moments.

The 40MP images I captured turned out beautifully, with rich colors and impressive details. Even after cropping for composition, the images held up remarkably well. Pairing the XT5 with Fujifilm’s compact f/2 primes made for a lightweight setup that excelled in the wet conditions.

Fujifilm XT5 street photography: is this the Perfect Camera for Beginners in Street Photography?

In my experience so far, the Fujifilm XT5 seems like a fantastic choice for someone just getting into street photography. Its combination of size, image quality, intuitive controls, and customizable features make it approachable for newcomers. My time shooting in Coventry reinforced my belief in its capabilities.

If you’re considering your first camera for street photography, I highly recommend giving the Fuji XT5 a shot. And don’t forget to check out my YouTube video for more insights and examples of the camera in action. For further discussions and tips on photography, feel free to explore my personal blog

Happy shooting, and may you capture many beautiful moments on the streets!

Fujifilm X100VI Alternatives That Are In Stock Now!

Are you looking for Fujifilm X100VI alternatives?

If you’re like me, you’ve probably been eyeing the Fujifilm X100VI with its stunning image quality and sleek design. But, like many, you might have found it nearly impossible to track one down due to its high demand and limited stock. It’s been a real challenge getting my hands on one, and I know I’m not alone in this struggle.

But here’s some good news: the perfect camera might still be within reach! While waiting for the X100VI to become available can be frustrating, I’ve been diving into the world of alternative cameras that could be just as exciting, if not more so, depending on what you’re looking for.

Imagine discovering a camera that offers innovative features and exceptional performance, all while being in stock and ready to ship. These alternatives might surprise you with their unique capabilities and design, potentially even surpassing the X100VI. Whether you’re seeking those beautiful Fuji film profiles, versatile shooting options, or a fresh take on compact camera design, there’s a whole range of choices out there.

I’ve put together an in-depth YouTube video where I explore some of the best alternatives to the Fujifilm X100VI. In this video, I share my personal insights and experiences with each camera, helping you find a great option that’s available right now.

[Watch Now: Top Alternatives to the Fujifilm X100VI – Find Your Perfect Camera Today!]

I’m excited to share these discoveries with you and help you navigate the world of compact cameras. Click the link to watch the video, and let’s find a fantastic camera that’s actually in stock and available today.

Some of these alternatives are smaller, lighter, and even more versatile than the X100VI. The best part? They all offer equal or better image quality, and you can buy them right now.

Happy shooting, and I hope you find a camera that’s perfect for you!

How to Travel Safely In the Philippines

Is it safe to travel in the Philippines?

As many of you will know I have been living in the Philippines for about 3 years now. I first visited these beautiful islands in 2006, attracted by the natural beauty and friendly reputation of the people here.

With the fairly recent election of President Duterte and his infamous ‘war on drugs’ many people ask me if it is still safe to travel to the Philippines.

The simple answer to that is yes but as with anywhere in the World you should keep your whits about you and follow some basic rules so that you know how to travel safely in the Philippines.

The Philippines is made up of over 7000 exotic islands and almost all are what I would consider safe to travel to.

The only exception to this is the south western side of the island of Mindanao in the south around the area of Zamboanga where there is a heightened threat of kidnapping of foreign nationals by Muslim groups such as Abu Saayef.

Latest Travel Advice map from the British Emabssy

Make sure to check out your countries Foreign office website to keep up with the latest travel warnings.

I find the British and American websites to offer the latest and most up to date travel advice within the Philippines. You can find links to their page below:

British Foreign and Commonwealth Office

United States Embassy travel warnings

What is the situation on the ground?

I live in Cebu province and as you can see from the map above even the southern end of this island is subject to a travel warning. I regularly travel in the south of Cebu province and get the ferry over to Dumaguete on the next island of Negros oriental. Sometimes there are armed guards around the port and sometimes there aren’t. When travelling int he Philippines don’t be alarmed at the sight of armed security guards, armed police and even seeing soldiers at various ports and places as this is quite normal. These people are here for your protection and as you become used to the way of life here it becomes something that you simply accept and don’t notice in every day life.

I can honestly say (coming from a fairly normal UK city) that I feel safer in the Philippines than I do on a Friday night in the city centre of most UK cities. I have never once got in to trouble with a local and by and large the people here are incredibly friendly, respectful and hospitable.

I was living here before Duterte came in to power and nothing has changed on the ground in terms of everyday life.

If you do as you would do in your own country and stay away from drugs, avoid drinking heavily and act respectfully towards people then unless you are very unlucky you should not have any trouble when travelling in the Philippines.

The few problems I have seen are in my mind usually avoidable. ie guys get into fights when they are drunk at 3am in the morning and wander in to the wrong part of town. Well that could be true of any country that I have ever visited.

How to stay safe in the Philippines

Here are a few basic tips to minimise the risk of getting in to any trouble when you are here.

When you arrive (presumably at Manila) be aware that as a foreign tourist you will be targeted by taxi drivers as you exit the airport. Some of these guys are trying to take advantage of the fact that you are new here and don’t know the cost of getting to your hotel or destination. They will try and charge you 1000 pesos for a journey that when metered is only a couple of hundred pesos. The easiest way to avoid these guys is to simply say no thank you I will get a metered taxi. Once they realise that you know this is an option they will usually move on to someone else. The metered taxis all line up outside the airport and you will know where they are because all the Filipinos get them. If you are unsure just ask one of the many guards and they will show you.
The nicest areas of Manila are BGC (Bonifacio Global City) with lots of expats , restaurants and a very safe atmosphere. In particular Mckinley Hill is lovely. Makati which is the business district, offers lots of high end accommodation and again is pretty safe.
Don’t look like a victim and you are unlikely to be one. Be confident when in the Philippines because most people will be happy to help you to find your way around.
Don’t show off your expensive camera, watch, jewellry etc. This goes without saying when you are visiting any country in my opinion and is just common sense. If you don’t show your wealth then you will not attract the attention of thieves and pickpockets.
Use some of the local language and you will immediately find that Filipinos open up and are happy that you made the effort to learn a little bit of their native tongue. Smile and throw in a few words of Tagalog (in Manila) or Bisaya (if in the Visayas) and you are already seen in a more favourable light compared to English only speakers. Whenever I jump in a taxi I always greet the taxi driver with muxta po (in Tagalog) or muxta Kuya (Bisaya) (both pronounced Musta) meaning how are you brother or friend. This has two benefits. It shows that you make the effort to know a little of the language and it also makes the taxi driver aware that you perhaps know a little of the language and culture. In turn this makes them less likely to try and rip you off.
In the Philippines as a foreigner you will often be offered an alcoholic drink by locals wanting you to join their group. Smile have fun but don’t drink what they offer you unless you know these people or are with a local friend who knows them. In general it is most likely harmless and simply a kind offer of hospitality. However there are 2 reasons why I don’t like to do this. First is that you don’t know what is in that drink you are being offered. It may be drugged (highly unlikely but still). Secondly if you get drunk with a bunch of guys that you don’t know then it may just be tempting for them to relieve you of your money, wallet, valuables. In Cebu smile and say dli ko, salamat (I dont want it, thank you). Just be pleasant and make light of it and you will always get a smile back.
Don’t overpay for things in the Philippines. Yes everything can seem cheap when you come here but remember that you will be much more respected by Filipinos if you pay the going rate for something than if you keep getting ripped off. See what the locals pay and if you are feeling generous add a small tip. For example if someone helps you to carry your bags from the taxi to a bus etc a Filipino might give a 5-10 pesos tip. If you pay over the top for everything then you put the price up for local people.
Don’t give money to beggars. They are often part of a gang working the streets. They will carry babies, make hand gestures as if to say I need to feed my baby and basically do anything to make you feel guilty. I never give money to beggars because once you do (and this has happened to me) a whole load more will suddenly appear as they tell their friends that foreigner just gave me x amount of money. If i like the person and they seem genuine I will buy them something to eat.
Just use your common sense and don’t do something or go somewhere that you wouldn’t when in your own country. That is easily the number one piece of advice here. Use your instincts as they are normally right. If you wouldn’t walk down a dimly lit street at night in your home town then don’t do it here.
Don’t get scammed on a dating website. If you meet a girl and within hours she is telling you that she loves you, her mum is sick, she is a student but can’t afford to finish the course or she would love to talk more to you but she needs load for her cellphone, let those alarm bells go off in your head loud and clear. She IS intending to scam you for as much money as possible. Do not send money online to people that you don’t know. Or if you are going to then send it to me instead 😀

Most of all when planning your trip to the Philippines if you stick to the above advice and use your common sense then I am sure that you will have a fantastic, safe trip. It really is a beautiful country and the people rightly have a reputation as among the most friendly and hospitable in the World.

As I live and work here this post is the first in a series of blogs that I will be writing about the Philippines. Upcoming articles will include some of the best places to visit along with blogs about my families travels here.

I would love to hear any tips from you about travelling safely in the Philippines or anywhere else. Have you already visited the Philippines or maybe you live here and have some great tips for other readers. Please add them to the comments below.

The Best Portrait Photography book by Damien Lovegrove

I have read many, many photography books over the years to try and find the best portrait photography book. The best one that I have read in a very long time comes from World renowned portrait and Fuji X Photographer Damien Lovegrove.

Damien is a very well respected portrait photographer and creates some of the most beautiful portrait images using a variety of lighting styles. I am particularly enamored with his Hollywood lighting shots.

So naturally when he recently released his own E book called Portraits I was very interested to see what was inside.

Damien proudly claims that “everything that he knows about photographing people is in this book” and having purchased it myself at full price and studied it in detail I believe him.

Not only is the book full of inspirational images, Damien takes the time to break down each image and explain his vision and his camera and lighting settings.

The book is of very high quality with over 300 high-resolution images and 50,000 words. It walks you through everything from having a vision, finding great locations and tips on connecting with and posing your subject. Of course Damien goes in to far more detail than I could ever explain here but suffice to say if you have even the slightest interest in portrait photography then this book will show you how to improve your images exponentially.

As mentioned earlier, Damien is a Fuji X photographer and a huge fan of the Fuji X series of cameras but his hints and tips apply no matter what camera system you use. I have used his tips with my Fuji XT2 (review here) as well as Olympus Pen F (review here) to create some of my favourite images of my wife.

I was so inspired by this book that I contacted Damien to ask for an interview and he was kind enough to oblige.

1. How do you manage to keep your images and style looking fresh?

I use hard light and so few people use it because it can be quite scary, but it’s very rewarding also.
All of my pictures are upright, no tilted images and I keep the post production pure. I steer clear of any post production effects so my pictures are either true colour or B&W.

2. Why do you use Fuji cameras?

Because they are small, light and fun to use. They are not intimidating to the people I am photographing and it makes me feel good when I pick one up 🙂

3. What is your favourite lighting setup?

Two Lupo 1000s to create a classic movie lighting scenario.

4. For someone starting out in portrait photography what 1 piece of advice would you give them?

Take pictures 3 days a week minimum if you want to see your work improve. Practice really does make perfect. By doing 3 portrait shoots a week you will soon learn how people react and how to get the best from the people you are photographing.

5. What inspires you to keep creating images?

I get a buzz from taking pictures, I find the whole process really rewarding. From taking the pictures to sharing the image with my sitter and on my blog. Photography has been my sole hobby and passion for 35 years.

6. Would you recommend strobes or continuous lighting for portrait work and why?

For interiors I always use continuous light because it is easy to see what you have got and the light balances better with the available light in the room and is much easier to control.
Out on location I use strobes just because I need the sheer quantity of light. Continuous light is not yet powerful enough to compete with bright daylight.

7. Do you have any tips for accentuating or disguising a models good and not so good features?

First of all identify someones best bits. This could their personality, a laugh, cheeky smile. They may have fabulous legs or feel good about one aspect of their figure. Focus on these features. For the less flattering attributes, I leave them out of shot or put them into shadow. A portrait photographers role is to enhance, diminish, maximise and minimise.

8. Can you explain to us a little about your new Portraits Ebook and how it will help our readers to improve their photography?

It has taken me several years to write this book and I have covered every aspect of portraiture that I have encountered. It really is a master work, a labour of love and everything I know about portraiture is in this book. I have used over 380 pictures to illustrate the points and features mentioned and every photograph has a detailed caption explaining how it was taken as well as the settings used.

Click the image and enter code cotswoldphoto at checkout to get your 20% discount

We have secured a 20% discount off Damien Lovegrove’s Portraits Ebook for our readers. Simply follow this link and enter the code cotswoldphoto but don’t wait too long as this expires at the end of March.

Fuji XT2 vs Nikon D750

I put the Fuji XT2 vs Nikon D750 to see if the X-Trans III sensor can compete with full frame.

There is a lot of talk on the internet about the Fuji XT2 being able to hold its own or even better full frame cameras like the Nikon D750 so I thought I’d put them both to the test to see if this is really the case or not.

The most important point here is whether the X-Trans sensor in the Fuji XT2 can keep up with the very well respected full frame bayer sensor in the Nikon D750.

However I shall also look at handling and features because these play an important role in deciding which camera is right for you. Picking any camera is always a series of trade-offs so hopefully below I can go through the strengths of each system which will enable you to decide which one suits you best.

Before we move on let me just take a second to remind you that I provide all this information for free. It costs me a fortune to buy in all the gear to do these tests and the only way I can make any money to keep this website going is when you buy through my Amazon links. I get a tiny commission and it doesn’t cost you a penny or cent more. So please, if you are going to purchase anything at all (even non photography related) I would really appreciate it if you click any of the links below before you buy. Thanks again to everyone who shops using the links.

Amazon UK Links

Nikon D750 Digital SLR Camera with AF-S 24-120 mm f/4 VR Lens Kit (24.3 MP) 3.2 inch Tilt-Screen LCD with Wi-Fi UK Plug
Fujifilm X-T2 Camera Black Body Only 24.3MP 3.0LCD 4K FHD

Amazon.com links

Nikon D750 FX-format Digital SLR Camera Body

Fujifilm X-T2 Mirrorless Digital Camera (Body Only)

Handling

Handling is always a subjective matter because some people prefer larger cameras, larger grips or more bulk to balance out big lenses. Others prefer as small a package as possible while still retaining as much image quality and functionality as possible.

The Nikon D750 is one of the more compact full frame DSLRs available. It’s build quality is excellent although not quite up to the standards of the Nikon D500, D810 and above. The Fuji XT2 is a huge improvement over the XT1 in terms of build quality with improvements made to virtually every aspect of the body.

The build quality is roughly of equal level with the D750 feeling more solid but the XT2 feeling of a higher quality.

The D750 grip is reassuringly large and this allows you to carry it comfortably in one hand for long periods even though it weighs quite a lot more than the equivalent Fuji XT2 and lens combination. The grip on the XT2 is a little small and I definitely don’t feel particularly comfortable holding it one handed for any period of time unless the battery grip is attached.

The D750’s PASM dial has a push to unlock mechanism which would be better if it were a push to lock and push to unlock similar to the Fuji’s. It also features 2 custom settings which you can program to save your favourite settings and quickly switch to them with a turn of the dial.

All the buttons on the D750 make sense except the placement of the ISO button which is on the left of the LCD screen meaning that you can only really access it two handed. However you can re-program one of the other buttons such as the movie record button to become the ISO button.

Fuji relies on physical shutter speed, aperture (on most lenses) and ISO dials. As well as an exposure compensation dial. I prefer Fuji’s controls mainly due to the quick and direct access to ISO.

The Nikon D750 gives you a top LCD screen which can light up using the switch on the on/off switch and it shows all your most important settings. The rear of the camera features a flip out 3.2″ LCD screen that can be tilted up and down making it easier to compose shots at unusual angles.

The XT2 features a slightly smaller 3″ rear LCD tilt screen but it also has an additional hinge which allows for flexible shooting while in portrait orientation.

If you are going to be composing and shooting using the rear screen then the Fuji XT2 wins here comfortably as the screen is more reactive, focus is equally fast using the EVF or LCD screen and it allows more flexibility to capture photos at different angles . Whereas focus using live view on the D750 is painfully slow.

If size is a concern then the Nikon D750 is considerably larger than the XT2 at 840g. 141 x 113 x 78 mm vs the Fuji XT2’s 507g. 133 x 92 x 49 mm.

Features

Here’s a quick run down of the features of the two cameras that I see as being the most important.

Fuji XT2

24mp APS-C X Trans III sensor with no AA filter

Up to 14 FPS burst speed with electronic shutter, 11 FPS mechanical shutter with Grip or 8FPS mechanical shutter without grip.

1/8000 second fastest shutter speed plus electronic shutter up to 1/32000

Weather sealed body

325 focus points + custom focus modes for AF Tracking

4K video (although requires the VPB XT2 grip for full functionality).

Nikon D750

24mp Full frame 35mm Bayer sensor with AA Filter

Up to 6.5 FPS burst speed

1/4000 second fastest shutter speed

Weather sealed body

51 Focus Points

Full HD video

I’m not going to run through all the specs here as they are readily available elsewhere. The ones that I consider the most important are the difference in sensors and how that affects image quality (which I shall compare later) along with the burst shooting speed, faster top shutter speed of the XT2 and increased number of focus points.

The faster top shutter speed of the Fuji XT2 makes it possible to shoot fast aperture primes in bright daylight without the need to add ND filters to your lens. This is quite an advantage for portrait photographers working in bright conditions.

The faster FPS shooting of the Fuji XT2 combined with the customisable AF tracking modes make it more usable for wildlife and sport photography where the difference between 6.5 fps and 11fps is pretty noticeable. What is more of a factor is how widely spread the Fuji XT2’s focus points are. They cover nearly all the frame whereas with the Nikon D750 its 51 focus points are clustered very near the centre of the frame forcing you to use the technique of focusing and recomposing your image. That’s not a major problem if you are used to it but a broader spread of AF points would be preferable.

One of the areas the Nikon D750 is renowned for is its ability to focus in poor light. So I really wanted to test the XT2 against it to see whether Fuji’s claims of great low light focusing were justified or not.

When I tested the XT2 against the D750 in a really poorly lit room the XT2 not only kept up with the D750, it actually bested it on several occasions. I shot the XT2 at a wedding (see the post here) and it also focused really well in dimly lit scenes. Both cameras are among the best available for focusing in poor light.

In good light the Nikon D750 is probably a touch faster to focus but both are quick enough for most situations.

If like me you run a Youtube channel (and now I’m back in the UK with decent internet I will be adding videos more regularly) then video quality will probably be of some interest to you.

The XT2 offers excellent quality 4k video as opposed to the D750’s decent HD video. Fuji allows you to use their film simulations straight into video so if you don’t want to edit and grade footage afterwards you can still get some really nice looks. If you have an external recorder you also have the option to use the XT2’s flat F-Log profile to enable more room to push the video in post.

The only point to note is that if you are really considering the XT2 for video then you will probably have to factor in the VPB XT2 battery grip as it extends 4K recording time from 10 minutes to 30 minutes and HD from 15 minutes to 30 minutes. It also adds a headphone jack for monitoring audio levels. That of course adds to the cost of the overall Fuji package making it quite a bit more expensive than the D750.

Fuji XT2 vs Nikon D750 – Image Quality

If you are really just concerned about image quality then this is where I test that out. Can the Fuji XT2’s APS-C X-Trans III sensor compete against the Nikon D750’s 35mm Full frame C-mos sensor?

Below is a shot from the Nikon D750 taken in the Cotswolds with the 50mm f/1.4G lens attached. All images below were shot in Raw and converted to Jpeg in Lightroom CC with no adjustments. Full resolution version are available on my Flickr page

Nikon D750 + 50mm f/1.4 G @ f/2, 1/400, ISO 100

And below is a similar shot taken with the Fuji XT2 + 23mm f/1.4 lens attached. Note these were the closest focal lengths that I had to each other on that day and although the settings aren’t matched it gives a quick idea of IQ.

Fuji XT2 +23mm f-1.4 @f-2.8, 1-420, ISO 400

Nikon D750 + 50mm f-1.4G @f-5.6, 1-160, ISO 100

Fuji XT2 + 18-55mm @ f-5.6, 1-240, ISO 200

Now lets take a look at both images in Lightroom using the compare feature zoomed in to 100%. I shot the 18-55mm zoom at 35mm on the Fuji to give a roughly equivalent field of view to the 50mm f/1.4 G on the Nikon D750.

Fuji XT2 vs Nikon D750 image comparison of both photos zoomed in 100%

These images are zoomed in to 100% in the centre of the frame. What is surprising is that the Fuji using a kit lens is actually sharper than the Nikon D750 using a prime. Both lenses were stopped down to f/5.6. Now I know that the Nikon 50mm f/1.4 may not be the sharpest optic in the Nikon range but this result still bodes well for the XT2 considering we are only using the 18-55mm kit lens.

Fuji XT2 + 18-55mm @ f-4, 1-170, ISO 200

Below are a couple of examples of the skin tones that each camera produces

Nikon D750 SOOC Jpeg natural setting. Outdoor light in the shade.

I like the skin tones on both cameras but the Nikon is generally closer to what I see in real life. Particularly in the example of my daughter above.

In the photo below the highlights were clipped. I pulled them back using the highlights tool in Lightroom CC. I set the highlights to -100 and as you can see in the second image the sky retains the cloud detail.

Nikon D750 shot with clipped highlights in the sky

Nikon D750 Highlights recovered in Lightroom CC

And below is a similar shot taken with the Fuji XT2 with similarly clipped highlights in the sky.

Fuji XT2 with highlights recovered in Lightroom CC -100 highlights tool.

As you can see the Fuji seems to retain detail in the highlights as well as the Nikon D750’s full frame sensor. This is pretty impressive performance from the X-Trans III sensor.

Looking at the histograms of both cameras in Lightroom for the same scene I would put dynamic range of the two cameras at near enough neck and neck.

Fuji XT2 vs Nikon D750 High ISO noise performance

For the full set of ISO shots for the Nikon D750 and XT2 you can look on my Flickr or in this article pitting the Nikon D750 vs the D500 and D7200

Below we can take a look at a few comparisons between the Fuji XT2 and Nikon D750.

This is a 100% crop from both images. The Fuji XT2 on the left clearly shows a little more noise than the Nikon D750 but the differences are not huge. One thing to note on the full size images above is that the Fuji XT2’s white balance is more accurate in indoor light, better representing the colours than the Nikon. For example the writing on the John Grisham book (right of frame) is yellow as shown on the Fuji image.

At 6400 ISO the Nikon D750 definitely starts to pull away in terms of both luminance noise. The noise pattern from the D750 is finer and more consistent than the XT2. Don’t forget that these are raw files with no noise reduction performed. Both files are very usable with a touch of noise reduction in Lightroom but the D750 gives you a cleaner base file to work with.

Again you can see the advantage that the larger sensor of the Nikon D750 has. My testing confirms that the full frame sensor in the Nikon D750 has almost exactly a one stop advantage over the Fuji XT2 at high ISO settings. Therefore if you shoot a lot at high ISO and find yourself pushing beyond 6400 ISO a lot then I would definitely be looking to get a full frame camera as it does still give you a one stop advantage.

From previous testing the Fuji XT2 performs a little better than the Nikon D7200 and around the same as the Nikon D500 in this area.

I also note that to get the best performance you will want to shoot raw and use Lightroom or your own PP software as the in camera noise reduction of the Fuji XT2 leads to ugly noise and some additional colour noise at ISO 6400 and above. If you are going to shoot Jpeg I would turn the in camera noise reduction down all the way to -4.

Fuji XT2 vs Nikon D750 Conclusion

So is the Fuji XT2 as good as a full frame camera such as the Nikon D750?

In short, if ultimate image quality is what you are after then the larger sensor camera does still hold an advantage with all else being equal.

However those differences are only really noticeable in very specific areas.

For resolution and sharpness there is no discernible difference between the two. Lens choice will have much more impact on sharpness than swapping between the two cameras.

Where the D750 still holds an advantage is in high ISO noise performance and in depth of field control. If you like to shoot portraits with very shallow depth of field then the larger sensor in the D750 will give you the ability to do that more so than the APS-C sensor in the XT2.

In terms of handling and features the Fuji would be my preference with its smaller size, faster shooting speed, more AF points and of course the ability to shoot 4K video.

One point that we must not overlook is the fact that the XT2 sports one of the very best EVF’s with a 2.36 million dot display and a very large .77x magnification. I personally love the What you see is what you get nature of EVFs as I no longer need to chimp after each shot as I often would on a DSLR. However many people still prefer an optical viewfinder and the one on the Nikon D750 is excellent and large.

So which one should you buy?

It really depends upon your preferences. If you want the best camera for your money and value ultimate image quality then the Nikon D750 is the clear winner. It offers a full frame 35mm sensor in a relatively compact DSLR format which is weather sealed, shoots at a reasonable 6.5 fps, focuses incredibly well in low light, offers dual SD card slots and handles as a DSLR should. It is a relative bargain at the moment at around £1500 in the UK.

However as I have a young family now, my chances for dedicated photography outings have diminished somewhat and so I often find myself taking a camera along with me on trips out. Therefore I value several things about the Fuji over any DSLR.

One is the smaller size which makes it much easier to bring along with me when other items take priority.

Secondly I value the EVF because I can quickly get exactly the image that I want without holding everyone up while I chimp on the back of the screen as I would inevitably have to do on a DSLR.

Thirdly when a CSC tells you it has locked focus it almost always has. Whereas you may find that you need to micro adjust your lenses on a DSLR due to back or front focusing issues. I don’t always have the time or the inclination to calibrate all my lenses and I don’t want to capture images of my family only to find they are not in focus.

Despite my personal preference for the Fuji XT2 due to the reasons outlined above I would not argue with anyone who said that the Nikon D750 gives better image quality and is the better value camera. However I would pick the Fuji XT2 over it any day of the week. It is way more fun to shoot with and in the end the best camera is the one that I want to pick up and take with me. At this time in my life that is rarely a DSLR.

Don’t forget to check out my review of the Fuji XT2 here and follow me on Twitter to keep up with what I am testing at the moment.

Nikon D750 vs D500 vs D7200 ISO comparison

Hey everyone. I hope you all had a great Christmas and New Year. I’m now back in the UK so can start to get busy adding reviews and articles again such as this comparison between the Nikon D750 vs D500 vs D7200.

I shot all the images in manual on a tripod and in Raw. All were shot at f/4. Yes I realise that some people want the images normalised for depth of field so I also shot the D750 shots at f/5.6 and those will be available along with all the other files on my Flickr page.

I used the Nikon 85mm f/1.8G on the D750 and the 50mm f/1.4 G on the D500 and D7200. Alhough the field of view is not exactly the same it is as close as I could get with the lenses that I had on me.

The files you see here are straight conversions to Jpeg in Lightroom creative cloud.

I had all three cameras on me and thought it would be interesting to see if the full frame Nikon D750 holds an advantage over the newer APS-C D500 and the bargain Nikon D7200.

So here we go.

At 3200 ISo I am starting to see a noticeable difference between the 3 cameras with the D7200 falling behind slightly. The noise pattern on the D7200 is slightly larger and more obvious than on the D500. The D500 is still not as good as the D750 though which exhibits very clean noise performance at ISO 3200. All 3 cameras are very useable at ISO 3200 but the D750 is definitely producing the cleanest image.

I have seen some people claim that the D500 is as good as the D750 at high ISO. Well it seems that physics still rules and the larger sensor and photosites are still outperforming those on the newer Nikon D500.

Here is a 100% crop of both cameras at ISo 3200. The D500 on the left and the D750 on the right.

Nikon D500 (left) vs Nikon D750 at ISO 3200. 100% crop

Below is a 100% crop of the Nikon D500 (left) vs the Nikon D7200 at ISO 6400. The differences are not huge but notice the finer noise pattern on the D500.

Nikon D500 (left) vs Nikon D7200 at ISO 6400

And finally lets push the boat out a bit and see what the cameras can do at 12800 ISO

Below is a 100% crop of the Nikon D7200 vs D750 at ISO 12800. The D7200 image is really starting to fall apart at this setting whereas the D750 is still doing very well. The D500 is a little better than the D7200 but nowhere near as clean as the D750.

All the images are available to view on my Flickr along with some even higher ISO samples from the cameras.

I hope you find this useful if you’re considering any of these cameras.

I’m currently getting out a lot with my Fuji XT2 and am putting it up against the Nikon D750 for general shooting. After that I will be photographing some wildlife and sports action putting the Fuji XT2 against the D500 to see which ones auto focus is better.